A new Iraqi restaurant recently opened on the Delmar Loop. While the dishes at Milano Kabob (602 Westgate) have the hallmarks of familiar Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine, there are distinctive touches that make the food uniquely Iraqi. Here’s what to know before you go.
The Menu
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“All of our food is like people eat at home in Iraq,” explains co-owner Ruwaida Alrammahi, whose parents, Fouad and Abeer Rammahi, cook the same recipes that she and her three siblings enjoyed while growing up: smoky roasted eggplant salad, brightly flavored fattoush salad with fried pita bread, crispy sambosa rolls (filled with chicken, beef, cheese, or vegetables), and desserts with just the right level of sweetness.
Alrammahi suggests those who want to try a quintessential Iraqi dish start with the falafel sandwich. “Ours are delicious—and I’ve tried falafels all over town,” she says. Two key differences set the restaurant’s falafel sandwich apart: samoon bread and amba sauce. “If you go anywhere in St. Louis, you will not get samoon bread for your sandwich,” Alrammahi says. The diamond-shaped bread, softer and thicker than a pita, is sourced at a local South City bakery. Amba sauce is a tangy mango pickle condiment that’s central to Iraqi dining. “Back home, that’s what people eat falafel with. My grandpa used to make it all day,” Alrammahi says. At Milano Kabob, her mother makes the sauce from scratch according to her own recipe. “I’m excited to have it on the menu,” Alrammahi adds.
Another signature dish is fasolia, which Alrammahi describes as an Arabic version of beans and rice. At Milano Kabob, the stew-like dish includes white beans, tomatoes, onions, and simple spices, served over rice.
Because Alrammahi’s parents are devout Muslims, all of the meat on the menu is halal, whether it’s the chicken wings or the beef, chicken, or lamb kebobs. The restaurant purchases hand-butchered animals locally to ensure the meat is extra fresh, and they use cuts such as lamb back to ensure it’s extra tender.
Her mom is also the restaurant’s pastry chef, determining what desserts to serve on any given day. Baklava is a constant, though Alrammahi adds that the flavors often change, depending on her mom’s inspiration.
A large section of the menu labeled “Ruw’s Juice” is devoted to fresh, cold-pressed juices and smoothies featuring fresh fruits and vegetables, many purchased by the box at Soulard Farmers’ Market. At $6 per serving, the drinks are reasonably priced—something Alrammahi says her family strives for across the menu. Because the Delmar Loop is popular with college students, she hopes the affordability will draw them into the newly opened restaurant once they return from winter break.
The Atmosphere
Although many to-go counters can look utilitarian, the small storefront is filled with personality, from the plants in the window to the abundant treats and fruits in the display case. Alrammahi greets customers at the counter—and she says that even after a month in business, they’re starting to see the familiar faces of repeat customers.
For the most efficient pickup of to-go orders, she suggests calling ahead (314-261-4816), so wait times will be as short as possible. With its tiny storefront and only a couple of seats at the counter, the café is not set up to handle a big influx of customers, and Alrammahi doesn’t want to leave people waiting outside in the cold.
The Team
Alrammahi moved to St. Louis in 2009, at age 10, with her mother, two brothers, and one sister. Her dad, Fouad Rammahi, arrived in 2012. The parents owned Milano Grocery, a deli on Gravois Road for several years, and their familiarity with the to-go/counter service model is one of the reasons that Milano Kabob is not designed to be an eat-in restaurant. Alrammahi would love to eventually expand to full-service dining, however, and incorporate the family’s other business, Milano Hookah Lounge (6608 Delmar).
In addition to Fouad and Abeer Rammahi in the kitchen, Alrammahi is joined by her brother, Mustafa Alrammahi, several days per week. Other family members also help out in their own ways, she adds, making the restaurant a true communal effort.
