Indo’s shima aji sashimi is a symphony of colors, flavors, and textures

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

This article appeared in the February 2021 issue of St. Louis Magazine.

Some chefs take decades to master the art of creating proper sushi. Nick Bognar, however, left town for what seemed like an instant to work at such restaurants as the famed Uchiko in Austin, returned home and, not long after, began dazzling diners at the family’s restaurant, Nippon Tei, with his fabulous omakase (chef’s choice) presentations. Local plaudits led to multiple James Beard Award nominations, including two for Rising Star Chef of the Year and a Best New Restaurant nom in 2020 for the 28-year-old chef’s inaugural eatery, indo. Such dishes as shima aji sashimi are part of the reason. The name translates to “striped horse mackerel,” a rather unflattering moniker for a species that, unlike other mackerel, is neither fishy nor oily. Bognar dry-ages the fillets for a day or two, reducing the water content to add texture and a certain sweetness. Thin slices of the fish are placed atop shredded daikon and shiso leaves. Bold, umami-packed accoutrements—including tobiko, chili crisp, fried shallots, and scallion (both charred and fresh sliced)—add crunch. For the glaze, Bognar reduces sake and mirin to a syrup, then adds soy, garlic aromatics, and dried, smoked mushroom. A favorite among sushi aficionados, a version of shima aji sashimi is available at indo this season and will be included when Bognar’s omakase dinners resume.