Dining / First Bite: Lascelles Granite City

First Bite: Lascelles Granite City

Eric Brenner’s new venture wows the Metro East.
https://vimeo.com/125188246

“The best part is, I’m having fun,” says Eric Brenner, executive chef of the 50-seat Lascelles Granite City (1324 Niedringhaus, Granite City, 618-709-7375), located in the wedge-shaped former Guardian Bank building in the city for which the restaurant is named. When the chef is having fun, this is usually manifested on the table. A contender for the Cutest Appetizer Ever award, Bacon + Eggs means a quartet of deviled eggs with rings of Peppadew peppers and upright shards of maple-glazed bacon. The Chicken + Dumplings moniker is a deliberate tease, disguising a beautifully plated smoked half-chicken with potato gnocchi, mushrooms, and peas. A small bar resides where a row of tellers once stood; the bank vault is now the walk-in. Natural light from floor-to-ceiling windows validates the decision to allow the 98-year-old multicolored granite floor to remain for another generation to appreciate. Summer merriment plays out in the beer garden in back, the perfect perch from which to consider a grilled cheese BLT and one of a dozen local craft brews. Located at what’s called “Six Mile” (the distance from the Mississippi River), Lascelles is an easy jaunt from St. Louis and a fun experience. Just ask Brenner.