I’m an avowed meat eater, and yet it wasn’t until about two weeks ago that I found out about the Denver steak. Apparently, this cut is having a moment, sought after for its wonderful marbling, full, beefy flavor, and tenderness—the trifecta when it comes to steaks. Renowned butcher Chris Bolyard, owner of Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions (2733 Sutton), shared all about this cut, including what part of the cow it comes from and how to cook it. After listening to him, I’m definitely putting it into my steak rotation, even if it means I’ll have to put in a little more effort on the front end to source it. He guarantees it’s worth the effort.
I’m hearing a lot of talk lately about Denver steaks. In fact, two chefs have recently told me that it’s one of their favorite cuts. What is going on?People are definitely being turned on to it now; it was definitely a lesser-known cut when we opened the shop 12 years ago. Back then, no one knew what it was, and it was a very hard sell, but now people are starting to figure it out and are coming in and asking for it by name. It’s become a favorite cut for a lot of people for good reason. A lot of people prefer it over strip, ribeye and tenderloin.
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So what is a Denver steak? Basically, it’s located in the chuck primal, the shoulder more specifically. That section of the shoulder has two parts of it; the technical name for the section the Denver steak comes out of is the serratus ventralis. That’s the bottom side, or the flat, of the shoulder blade; the other portion of it is the roll, which is where we get a couple of steaks and chuck roasts. You really have to have an understanding of the chuck itself to pull those out because the entire section of the flat isn’t a Denver steak. What’s funny is that when I’ve been to the grocery store, I take a look at the meat section of course and I haven’t seen anybody cutting Denver steaks, but I will see chucks with the Denver steaks in it.
What makes Denver steaks so special? In terms of tenderness, they are extremely tender. If you are comparing them to other cuts on the animal, they are the second most tender cut on the shoulder next to the flat iron, which is the most tender cut. Also, they are extremely marbled. It depends on the animal and time of year, but Denver steaks can look almost like Wagyu at times. In my opinion, they are very tender and way more flavorful than a lot of steaks.
How would you compare it to a ribeye? I’ve heard some people say that a Denver steak is like a cross between a ribeye and a strip in terms of flavor and marbling. I can see that. In a ribeye, you are going to have larger pieces of fat. A ribeye has two different muscles depending on where it’s cut; if you are cutting closer to the shoulder you are going to have a strip of muscle outside of the ribeye that is called the spinalis, or some call it the deckle. With a Denver steak, it is just one continuous piece of meat, but it’s heavily marbled throughout.
How does a Denver steak compare in price to other steaks? Right now, it’s under the price range of filet, ribeye and strip, but it’s such a marbled flavorful steak and it’s in high demand now, so the price is starting to go up. This is because there’s only so much of it—you get fewer Denver steaks from an animal than you do strips and ribeyes.
How do you cook a Denver steak? You can cook it like any other steak. In terms of thickness, we generally cut them about an inch and a half on average. Sometimes people like to get big monster ribeyes and strips, but I feel like these eat better if they are not quite as thick. As for cooking, the same rules apply: pull it out ahead of time, season, let it rest. Some people like to grill it over open fire and some do it in cast iron. Personally, I am a fan of searing in cast iron. I love open fire too, but it’s not as convenient as cast iron and I love to get that caramelization over the entire steak.
Recipe: Choi Family Chimichurri
Two years ago, my friends Luke and Jina Choi hosted a party for our school, and they served the most delicious chimichurri alongside a flawlessly cooked steak. I’m still thinking about it, and since we are officially in grilling season, I thought it was a good time to finally get the recipe and learn what makes it so special. The short answer? A ton of garlic. The longer one? A fun story about a Korean immigrant family who made their way to Springfield, Missouri via Argentina—a recipe imbued with meaning, which is surely why it tastes so delicious.
According to Jina Choi, the story centers around an interaction in Springfield, Missouri. “Apparently, this Korean family first immigrated to Argentina and then the U.S., to Springfield, Missouri of all places,” Choi says. “They opened a restaurant, and that’s when Luke, who is from another Korean immigrant family that came directly to Springfield, had Argentinian asado and chimichurri for the first time before going to college. It wasn’t until over 15 years later that he attempted to make it on his own and tweaked his recipe over time.”
Choi believes that the secret to her husband’s chimichurri is the garlic, which is more pronounced in his recipe compared to the traditional Latin American version of the dish. “Koreans love garlic, and our family is no exception,” Choi says. “In fact, Koreans love garlic so much that there is a well-known folk story about garlic. And this bit is very cheesy, but one of our family members loves Luke’s chimichurri so much that they call it ‘chimiCHOIri.’”
Ingredients:
- 1 whole head of fresh garlic or 10 individual pieces. Finely crushed or minced
- 1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
- 1 tablespoon dried oregano
- 1 large lemon
- 1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt (plus more to taste at end)
- 1/2 tablespoon of freshly cracked black pepper
- 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1 large bunch of flat leaf Italian Parsley
- 1 large bunch of cilantro
- 1/2–3/4 cup red wine vinegar
Directions:
- Prepare the garlic base by combining garlic, red pepper flakes, dried oregano, lemon, salt, pepper and olive oil. Cover and let sit at room temperature several hours before serving or overnight in the fridge. (This step helps mellow out the potential harsh rawness of the garlic.)
- Wake the fresh greens.
- Bring base to room temperature if kept in the fridge until oil is liquified. Use leaflets and upper stems of the cilantro and parsley. Chop finely. Add greens to the base and let sit for another hour or so to let all the flavors “marinate”.
- Before serving, slowly pour in the red wine vinegar. Add incrementally and taste to desired “punchiness”. Add more oil to obtain preferred consistency. The final product should be loose and spoonable.
- Salt and pepper to taste, if necessary.
