Dao Tien gives downtown a Vietnamese flavor

Vietnamese restaurant Dao Tien Bistro opened a downtown location on October 11, at 820 Olive Street. The new restaurant is Dao Tien’s second branch, but with a Costco store set to be developed next year on the site of the original University City location, downtown could end up being the solitary outpost.

Co-owner Dao Bui’s daughter Tien Dinh is a nurse, but she was helping out at the restaurant for the opening. Dinh told St. Louis Magazine that the downtown expansion came about by chance. “A broker came around and showed us some options, places that were available,” Dinh said. “This was one of them, and there was no Vietnamese restaurant in the area, so we took it.”

The new restaurant occupies a large space, with a high ceiling, lime-green walls, and space for around 50 diners. A bar cuts an arc across the room, seating a further 10 customers. The restaurant is fitted with several large TV screens, and upbeat dance music fills the space between conversation.

Dao Tien was packed through lunchtime on its first day of business, and the $10 lunch deal should continue to attract a mid-day crowd from nearby workplaces. Between 11 a.m.–2 p.m. from Tuesday to Friday, choose from one of 27 dishes, including lemongrass chicken, salted pepper tofu, curry beef, and ginger pork. The main dish comes with an appetizer, soup, and a serving of rice, with several options under each of those categories.

The menu covers many bases, including Vietnamese classics like banh mi sandwiches ($5–$7) and bowls of pho, flat rice noodles in a steaming aromatic broth ($10–$15). There are salads, and appetizers like rice paper rolls ($5–$6). These feature varied fillings, like shredded pork skin or fried tofu, rolled up with fresh herbs, bean sprouts, lettuce, and rice noodles. Most dishes on the menu are suitable for both solo dining and for sharing, but check with a member of staff before ordering to confirm.

Try the bun, rice noodles served “dry” (i.e., without soup) with your choice of grilled meat, tofu, or egg rolls. Before you start eating, use your chopsticks—or fork—to mix the noodles with bean sprouts, pickled carrots and radish, lettuce, onions, peanuts, cilantro, and mint. On the side, is a small dish of tart, pungent nuoc mam (fish sauce) mixed with red chiles, vinegar, and garlic. Drizzling this into the bun adds an extra dimension of flavor, but if you’re trying it for the first time, taste a little before deciding how much you want to add.

Dao Tien also offers a number of Vietnamese specialties, like canh chua, a sweet and sour tamarind soup ($25–$30, call a day in advance to book) and kho to (clay pot) dishes ($11–$18). The spare rib clay pot features fall-off-the-bone meat cooked in butter, onions, and a rich, salty, and slightly spicy sauce. The dish is topped with crispy onions and served with a side of steamed rice and pickled vegetables.

Finish your meal with a coconut sticky rice ($7) or a Vietnamese iced coffee with condensed milk ($5). If you prefer a boba drink, Dao Tien offers boba teas and smoothies ($5) in flavors ranging from matcha to durian. The restaurant should have its liquor license in the next week or so.