Unless you have been living under a rock, you’ve probably noticed the myriad options for wine glassware. That’s because a lot of research has gone into examining how each grape varietal reacts to various shapes of glasses. Yet while the range of wine glasses has expanded considerably, the type of glassware used for Champagne has remained virtually unchanged—until now.
Today, many wine connoisseurs have decided to boot the traditional Champagne flute.
Find the best food in St. Louis
Subscribe to the St. Louis Dining In and Dining Out newsletters to stay up-to-date on the local restaurant and culinary scene.
Why, you ask?
First, Champagne is a wine. “Why do we put it in a test tube, instead of a wineglass?” asked Olivier Krug, house director of the famous Krug Champagne, at a recent event in Santa Monica, California. Instead, consider pouring Champagne into a small white-wine glass or a white Burgundy stem. The result: an altogether different experience and taste.
The original idea behind the flute was to keep the gas, or “bubbles,” in the wine. It helped portray an appearance of refinement. So what’s the problem with that perception? Most people drink those bubbles at a speed that completely negates the notion of refinement. Just because we’ve been using flutes for years doesn’t mean they’re the right glass to showcase what Champagne has to offer. As tastes evolve, so too should stemware.
On the Bubble
Andrey Ivanov’s incredible wine list at Elaia also happens to contain some of my favorite Champagnes, available both in the restaurant and to take home. These can also be found at The Wine Merchant, at the prices listed below.
MV Champagne Chartogne-Taillet Sainte-Anne Brut: This one hits it straight down the fairway. It’s floral and complex, with notes of lemon-curd citrus and yellow apples, but avoids overpowering the senses. $45.99.
MV Champagne Gonet-Medeville Premier Cru Extra Brut Rosé: This pale-colored rosé provides tons of strawberry and red-cherry tastes, balanced with a tight acidity and a finish that’s fruit-forward, yet crisp and superdry. $46.99.
2009 Champagne Jean Milan Terres de Noël Brut: Generous and round—with a palate of lemons, limes, apricots, and Bosc pears—this Champagne also has delicate notes of fresh bread and briny minerality that come through on the finish. $69.99.
MV Champagne Varnier-Fanniere Brut Grand Cru: This tightly wound Champagne offers a barrage of lemon and green–apple notes, with a salty mouthfeel that seems to last forever. $79.99.
