A restaurant inspired by David Lynch’s iconic and semi-bizarre Blue Velvet is intriguing, isn’t it? Sorry, but this is Blue Violet (6108 Shoger, Suite B, Edwardsville), named for the state flower of Illinois. Even without the oxygen mask or Laura Dern, it’s a lovely dining experience that’s worth motoring to Edwardsville.
There might be something in the water there—or Edwardsvillian gourmets may have necessitated it—but the number of worthy eateries in that burg has mushroomed of late. Practically within a claret bottle’s throw of La Violet Bleu are Bella Milano, 1818 Chophouse, and Doc’s Smokehouse. They’re all eminent trans-Mississippi destinations set in strip malls in a suburban environment, a little-discussed but rapidly growing trend in fine dining in recent years. So when restaurateur Mike Del Pietro and his business partners decided to branch out beyond Italian cuisine, the booming Trace on the Parkway development was a natural choice. (You may already know Del Pietro from his numerous Italian restaurants: Sugo’s, Babbo’s, Il Palato, Tavolo V, the eponymous Del Pietro’s…)
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The setting at Blue Violet is comfortable and minimalist. If there’s an optometry boutique in the Hamptons, it might resemble Blue Violet’s interior. There are sleek tables and chairs, as well as a muted blue color scheme. The bar is no-frills but well-appointed. It provided our first felicitation: cocktails, mostly basic, none too extravagant. Attention is also properly given to a large, attractive wine list.
The modest menu changes with the seasons. As we worked our way through much of the fare, not a single dish failed. Plan on sharing the butternut squash–infused, egg-yolk-yellow twists of gemelli pasta with swirls of fontina and white cheddar, dappled with roasted breadcrumbs—among the most remarkable of mac ‘n’ cheese presentations. Despite being a “small plate,” it’s too rich for one. Another starter that’s too much for one person is a pair of baguette slices, one slathered in a ricotta mousse, the other with gooey melted Brie, both smeared with apple butter and a dollop of whole grain mustard. The crab and shrimp cakes, on the other hand, you can handle just fine all by yourself. Salvadoran curtido (think of it as a tart, oregano-flecked coleslaw) adds the right vinegary smack to the seafood.
Blue Violet’s creative take on chicken cordon bleu is splendid. The bird’s breast is stuffed with nibbles of country ham, a fontina ooze, and spinach, then roasted with a Parmesan crust. It rests on a cloud of grits that are as creamy as…well, if ice cream could be warm, it’d have this texture. Then there’s an unusual, delightful pickled-pepper gravy that lends a spicy, Jamaican tang to the whole shebang.
Cod takes to a roasting pan like a peripatetic accordion player to a polka band. The skin on a big, thick fillet gets salty, crunchy crust, spackled with pickled mustard seeds. The flesh is snowy and moist. Young fingerling potatoes, roasted cherry tomatoes, and spinach make a platform for the fish; it all sits in an excellent remoulade.
Short ribs, the GOAT of solace sustenance, receive a leisurely braise in red wine, rendering the beef caramel dark, falling in delectable threads under a fork’s light probe. Whipped potatoes underneath? Obviously, along with crispy kale, glazed carrots, and a rich beef gravy that brings it all together.
Maybe the menu didn’t have enough room to print kimchi bokkeumbap, but it’s definitely there: a dark red, hefty helping of fried rice tossed with carrot slivers, shredded cabbage, scallions, and garlicky kimchi. It’s a classic bit of homestyle Korean cooking—the fragrant rice would be great by itself. The addition, though, of battered and fried shrimp (the big, at least two-bite kind, plump and juicy) kicks up things considerably. It’s called “tempura shrimp,” but the batter’s thicker and more substantial. It’s an altogether wonderful, unexpected dish that’s skillfully presented.
If you want salad, then split an order of the “Everything” version, a name that’s not kidding: iceberg lettuce with salami, cheddar, eggs, banana peppers, tomatoes, red onions, and probably—who knows?—some toasted ravioli. If you’re in the mood for a sandwich, Blue Violet can fix you up with an extravagant burger, topped with bacon and white cheddar with garlic aioli. Or a po’ boy packed with those crab and shrimp cakes, along with a remoulade and slaw.
Oh, and if you’re making reservations or have a question, note that Blue Violet has a phone number (618-650-9003). Even more, a human answers it. Seriously. Additionally, Rylee is the best host/waitress/barkeep in Illinois. However, no—we asked—they do not have Bobby Vinson’s Blue Velvet on the Muzak playlist there. Because remember, it’s Blue Violet.
