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Restaurants with cupolas inevitably have great food. This is a maxim that has served this dining critic well. And so our prospects of a memorable dinner brightened considerably when we maneuvered down a long driveway leading to a magnificently preserved mid-19th century brick Italianate house in O’Fallon, Illinois, where an elegant windowed cupola peeked above the maples.
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The August Wastfield family lived there in 1857, when that part of the region was still mostly farmland. Modernity has since intruded, though there’s still a sense of a more genteel, bucolic past. The feeling’s stronger once you’re inside, where the house has been transformed into a restaurant, August the Mansion, while retaining much of its original character. (We tried to charm our way to the second floor, with the possibility of getting to that beguiling cupola. But no go—it was under construction as a future private event space.)
Owners Justin and Candace Mills, who recently bought the property, have been busy transforming the house into a classy dining joint. The process has been more complicated than it might appear: The structure is a much-beloved landmark in O’Fallon and home to several prior restaurants. It can be perilous work dealing with architectural traditions and locals’ expectations, but by all evidence the Millses have succeeded. The goal of fitting into the community shows up on the menu, which features ingredients from numerous local purveyors.
A hunk o’ beef rib the size of a tennis racket handle is swaddled in its meat so darkly braised that it looks like it’s been caramelized. The texture is delectably tender and the flavor intense. A glossy, syrupy jus red wine reduction doesn’t hurt, nor does a cloud of creamy polenta that’s thickened with sweet corn kernels underneath. It’s easy to picture Mr. Wastfield sitting down to such a meal.
Other dishes tend toward the more complex, though nothing we tasted was fussy or overly contrived, which is refreshing in a moment when ambitiously manipulated food is celebrated. We were taken by surprise at a tureen-size portion of orecchiette, simultaneously simple and extravagant. The dimpled, pebble-shaped pasta was stained pink with a substantial, herb-livened tomato broth, tossed with shrimp and sausage. The ground pork, from Wenneman Meat Co. in St. Libory, is perfect as well. Wenneman also supplies a bacon jam that decorates the burger. The beef patty (from Ernst Family Farms in nearby New Douglas) is thicker than a Stephen King paperback, and it’s topped with jam, arugula, and smoked gouda. You’ll need a fork—trust us.
The most “exotic” dish is a remarkable take on Peruvian chicken. St. Charles’ lovely Jalea sets the standard for pollo a la brasa, though August the Mansion’s version is absolutely creditable. Large slabs of flattened thighs are marinated in lime juice, garlic, and olive oil, then burnished under a broiler until the surface acquires that lacquer flecked with a char crust that is to barbecue what sequins were to an Elton John performance.
Two words on portions here: Gen. Erous. A platter of bucatini will easily feed two, and both will enjoy every bite. A ragù of smoked pork is tangy and sweet, spun into bucatini strands along with pecorino and an herbed and whipped ricotta.
Who passes on arancini? Those golden little golf balls of deliciousness beckon from any menu. They don’t disappoint here, crispy crusted with an interior of cheesy—Gruyère and pecorino carry the flavor—and starchy rice that’s perfectly al dente. The scarlet pomodoro dipping sauce is tempting enough to risk biting into those molten spheres too soon.
Pomme frites are bistro worthy and come with a mild aioli dip. An order for the table should be mandatory. A spinach salad is also shareable and enjoyable. Mozzarella shreds, red onion slices, rye croutons, and a happily restrained grain mustard dressing accent the spinach and bacon crumbles without overwhelming them.
This is the kind of place where a cynic might search for flaws, and a good place to look for those is often the wine list. Assembling a worthwhile list that covers wines to complement a menu with disparate components is a test of a restaurant’s vision. Affordability must also be factored. August the Mansion’s approach is more than satisfying. The list is balanced, with enough by-the-glass options to match every meal.
Walking along the property’s garden path, under a canopy of sprawling maples, provides a splendid beginning and end to a visit. It’s an experience of countrified charm and fine dining. And if you can talk your way into getting up into that cupola, let us know about the view.
