Chef Cassy Vires has learned lessons in a number of kitchens over the years.
Most recently: “Billows of smoke off a hot pan, ripples of oil: good. Smoking: bad.”
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That little lesson earned her the nickname—“Fire Starter”—at the newly opened Teaching Kitchen in Companion Bakery’s West St. Louis campus in Maryland Heights.
But she easily folds that mistake into her overall philosophy.
“Anyone can follow a recipe, that’s just reading. My goal is to teach you how to cook.”
Her wisdom comes from a smattering of kitchens. She started as a culinary student, then went on to open her own restaurants – most notably Home Wine Kitchen in Maplewood (known for its popular No Menu Mondays). After Home Wine closed, she assisted John Perkins at Juniper. Most recently, she found a passion for sparking the imaginations of future cooks, teaching in high school classrooms.
Vires is one of five chefs and bakers (including Companion founder Josh Allen) with diverse backgrounds conducting classes in the new, warm-yet-industrial space on Schuetz Road – a converted 41,000 square foot check printing facility.
“I’ll answer all your cooking questions,” Vires says as he adds salt to her jar of pickled (rather, pickling) shrimp. “Skip here,” she says with a nod toward pastry chef George “Skip” Guthier (right), the man opening the oven, “He will talk baking.”
Though only a doorway away from Companion’s bread production lines, Vires readily admits she’s no baker.
“I’m fickle,” she shrugs. “I like change and I like challenges.”
To that end, Teaching Kitchen is right up her ally.
The venture offers classes on topics from beignets to beef to bourbon. Guest instructors fill any curriculum gaps in a calendar consistently full of offerings Thursday through Sunday and sometimes on Monday.
Students in some classes have their hands on the food, others, like the one that has Vires talking over the industrial hood fan on this occasion, are demonstrations.
Billows of smoke wafting off her pan – just as they should – she offers her most popular tip.
“I’m regularly asked, ‘Why does meat stick to the pan?’” she says. “Heat and moisture. That’s why. Wet foods stick to the pan. Pat it with a paper towel; add salt to draw out the moisture.”
And with that, she drops her trout – skin on and skin side down – into the pan. Minutes later, she flips it. Effortlessly.
“I love it when the food cooperates with my plan!”
For now, Vires plans to be in the Teaching Kitchen a few times a week, handing out tips for the novice as well as those looking to advance their craft with more nuanced tricks. She offers lunch classes on Thursdays; evening options showcase her appetite for change on weekend evenings. But she doesn’t intend to stay at the head of the class all the time.
“Skip teaches a cake decorating class,” the self-proclaimed non-baker says of the experienced baker (and regular instructor) manning the ovens. “I’m excited to be a student in that one.”
Click here for a full calendar of classes. Prices start at $35 for lunch and learn sessions. Weekend classes range from $55 to roughly $125 per person. The Teaching Kitchen will offer kids’ camps during the summer months.
Teaching Kitchen (at Companion’s West St. Louis Location)
2331 Schuetz
Maryland Heights
314-627-5257
Companion’s West St. Louis Campus
