What’s the story with the Mooby’s pop-up? —Scotty B., St. Louis
The news arrived in local scribes’ emailboxes with the flash and pizazz of any major food-related announcement: Mooby’s is coming to St. Louis! It was accompanied by more teases than in Taylor Swift’s last interview. The fictional pop-up restaurant would appear at an undisclosed location; fork over your email for future announcements and advance tickets.
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A week later, the moment that tickets went on sale (via a 6:15 a.m. email), fearing being caught on the meager end of a trendy feeding frenzy, I snapped one up. The St. Louis event sold out, making that opening-day ducat appear as resplendent as Mooby himself, the restaurant’s fake fast-food golden calf of a mascot namesake.
Featured in director Kevin Smith’s film Dogma, Mooby’s also appeared in Clerks II and the Jay and Silent Bob films. Originally conceived as a 10-day pop-up in Los Angeles to promote carryout business for pandemic-stricken restaurants, the event was a huge success, which prompted Smith’s traveling circus to hit the road. St. Louis is the 11th city on the nationwide tour. Good Buddy’s Tasty Soups & Sandwiches (1115 Pine) is the host restaurant and pays a small percentage of food and beverage sales for the privilege.
The Mooby’s experience is extremely well organized. Ticket holders order in advance and are assigned a pickup or dine-in time. Each meal includes a “Moo Main” choice (double cheeseburger, vegan double burger, fried chicken sandwich, or vegan brat), as well as a “Salt Lick Side” (“Hater Totz” or “Onion Rings to Rule Them All”). The price in St. Louis: $29 before tax, fees, and tip. Beverages include soft drinks ($4 in a St. Louis 2021 cup), Mooby’s CBD seltzer, and a Mooby’s-branded New England pale ale from 2nd Shift Brewing ($8 for a single, $20 for a four-pack).
For the 12-day event, running April 22–May 2, Good Buddy’s sports a Mooby’s awning and blow-up versions of Jay and Silent Bob. The interior is decorated with Kevin Smith–signed movie posters, themed paraphernalia, and a digital menu board.
The sandwich-shop-turned-hypemachine was buzzing, upbeat, fun. A sidewalk greeter welcomes guests, throttling them in to maintain social distancing. (Lest they forget, floor decals remind them to “keep one cow apart.”) Meals are produced at the appointed time, staffers are cheery and upbeat, and guests seamlessly pay at a counter filled with impulse-buy add-ons, such as cookies and chocolate-covered pretzels ($5–$6).
The cheeseburger (with two smashed cow patties, American cheese, pickle, chopped onion, and Mooby’s sauce) was a fine juicy specimen; the “Hater Totz” were hot, crispy, mildly seasoned, abundant…nothing to hate on. The tally for the pairing (and no beverage): $38.70 (including tax, $3.90 in fees, and a 20 percent tip).
A couple could easily drop a quick $100 at Mooby’s—and that’s before indulging in a myriad of Mooby’s merchandise: branded socks, beanies, ball caps, visors, koozies, masks, Kevin Smith–signed St. Louis posters, and several T-shirts, one that pays a golden Mooby’s tribute to a mascot bird of a different color. I abstained but asked the vendor how many people forego the Mooby’s merch. “Just you and one other guy,” he said.
After an initial sell-out, additional tickets were added. At press time, a few were still available. A representative said that it’s possible the St. Louis event could be extended, but only if extra merchandise could be procured. “Gotta have the merch,” he said.
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