Noto’s Justin McMillen on the power of pawpaws

Before he was a CIA-trained chef and veteran of such esteemed kitchens as Sidney Street Café, Niche Food Group, and Single Thread in California, Justin McMillen was a kid learning about food on his family’s farm in rural Indiana. Those experiences informed his way of thinking about food and are what he draws upon in his current role as executive chef at Noto and The Elsworth Supper Club, which he runs with his wife, Amelia. His rural upbringing also exposed him to an ingredient that he is still trying to wrap his head around: the pawpaw. Although the season is short and they can be incredibly difficult to find, McMillen is convinced that the tropical-tasting fruit, native to Missouri, is well worth the effort.

It seems like pawpaws have been getting a lot of attention lately, but not everyone knows what they are or has tried them. How would you describe the fruit? It’s a fruit you can find here in Missouri and Illinois—I even have friends who have found them in Boston—that has a really unique tropical taste to it. I always describe them as very custard-like in texture and having something of a banana taste. There’s also this nuttiness to them. Custardy, banana-like, and nutty are usually the three ways I describe them.

Do you remember the first time you ever tried one? I do. I remember sitting on the swing at my grandparents’ house and my dad coming in from the field with one. He never really went and sought them out, but every now and then, he would come in and say, “Here are some pawpaws I found on the ground.” I remember tasting it and being so confused. I’d never tasted anything like it. We didn’t get them that often, because they are fair game for the animals out in the woods. However, if we were lucky enough to grab some, we took advantage of it, but we’d just eat them as-is; we never processed them to make anything. When I was going to culinary school, I started hearing about them, but at the time, people weren’t really harvesting or foraging them or selling them to restaurants. Once people started doing that, I had to take advantage of it. They have this story to them that reminds me so much of my childhood, and I always ask myself how I can make something different and put a twist on that story.

Pawpaws aren’t really cultivated, so it’s not like you can just go down to the store and get them. It also seems like, because they are so hard to get a hold of and have such a short season, you just don’t see them that often. I know that EarthDance Organic Farm School sometimes has them at its booth at the Ferguson Farmers’ Market, and a few nurseries have the trees for sale. Outside of that, how would you suggest someone get their hands on them if they want to try them? If you want to forage, Tower Grove Park has pawpaw trees. Also, if you follow the feeds of people in the local chef community, you can see where they are foraging them. Sometimes, they will also just have them for sale—sometimes even processed. Last year was such a good year, so I was able to find someone selling processed pulp by the quart. I was also lucky enough to find a tree for $40 last year; it hasn’t produced fruit yet, but it looks great. But really, the best way really is to check out people’s Instagram feeds; if you see someone foraging, message them. The season usually runs through October, and it’s a very short season, maybe just a month.

What are some ways you’ve incorporated pawpaws into your cooking? Last year, I made pawpaw miso and still have some in my freezer. My idea is to make a ravioli with the pawpaw pulp miso, ricotta, calamansi vinegar, a little honey, and a product called liquid shio koji, which results from a similar process used to make sake, but instead of feeding the rice sugar, you hit it with more salt. I’m also using the pawpaw miso to make a glaze for delicata squash that has been smoked over a hearth. One time, when I was at Peacemaker, I saw someone make a pawpaw custard pie. This is a no-brainer because the texture is so custardy. You can also make vinegar out of it or throw the seeds into some sugar to make a pawpaw sugar. I think more and more you are seeing them become available, so it’s fun to think of the endless ways you can use them.

What advice do you have for someone who is interested in experimenting with pawpaws but doesn’t know how to start? I remember learning about Jay’s International market when I was a young cook. I’d go there and end up buying a cart full of things that I had no idea what they were. I’d always try something and then see if it reminded me of something else that I was familiar with. That is the beauty of food, and you can do that same thing with pawpaws. If they taste like bananas to you and you’ve had banana bread, why not try to make pawpaw bread? We have these connections in our brain that allow us to be creative. That’s also the beauty of places like the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market or Soulard Market. We have so many places like those, where you can go and learn something new every time. Whether it’s a bottled product or fresh produce, you have to take advantage of what we have at our grasp. Bring it home with you, cook it, and learn something new.

Photography courtesy of Noto

Photography courtesy of Noto

RECIPE: Pawpaw Ravioli

McMillen understands that not everyone is familiar with pawpaws; the native Missouri fruit reveals new facets of itself every time he uses it, too. He’s been experimenting with several different applications lately, including this pawpaw ravioli, which incorporates its custardy pulp into a delightful ravioli dish that he has been recently serving at Noto. He believes the key to working with something new is to think through what it reminds you of and then use that as a jumping-off point. But most importantly, his biggest piece of advice is to be open to the joy of discovery. 

Serves 8-10

Pasta Dough 

INGREDIENTS

• 800 grams 00 flour
• 200 grams semolina
• 210 grams water
• 350 grams egg yolk

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Combine all ingredients in a mixer, and mix for 5–7 minutes.
2. Empty on the table, and knead for another five minutes, until a smooth ball forms.
3. Wrap in a bowl, and let rest for 30 minutes and up to an hour to relax the gluten.

Pasta Filling

INGREDIENTS

• 200 grams ricotta
• 50 grams pawpaw pulp
• 25 grams saikyo miso
• 20 grams calamansi vinegar (or mix juice of 1 orange, 1 lime, 1 lemon)
• 30 grams honey
• Salt to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Mix all together.
2. Let it sit overnight, and place in a piping bag.

Dish

INGREDIENTS 

• 1 cup chicken stock (roasted suggested)
• 2 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon butter
• ½ cup toasted pecan; chopped
• 1 white truffle (if you have available) using a microplane, or a truffle slicer
• ½ tablespoon smoked salt

INSTRUCTIONS: 

1. In a small sautée pan, add chicken stock, and let it come to a boil. Add butter and olive oil to emulsify.
2. Toss ravioli in the sauce to glaze, and reduce stock, so it coats the pasta gently (but leaving it not so reduced, so it’s not all the way absorbed).
3. Put in a dish to serve. Garnish with pecan, truffle, and smoked sea salt.