And so we say goodbye to Duff's. What began in 1972 with totally mis-matched silverware and furniture departs at the end of June 2013 as an institution.The single storefront expanded in both directions, but the menu maintained the line between comfortable and far out.
Who ate at Duff's? Most visits, there seemed one familiar face or another around, whether an acquaintance or a television personality. One Monday night, after a reading from his new book, Anthony Bourdain was feted there with a potluck from local chefs, an amazing night revealing a fairly soft-spoken Bourdain who delivered an impromptu post-prandial speech that had many of the younger attendees ready to go out and storm any nearby fast-foot spot - or to stage with him in New York.
From the sublime ( Bach played on a guitar at dinner with a man I loved wildly) to the ridiculous (that bathroom where people lingered to read the walls, the first of its kind in St. Louis), there was nothing like it.
The guys who own and operate The Tavern Kitchen & Bar, among other spots, are taking over the property. The Tavern is the next generation of eating styles, modern, a chance to taste many different things on one plate, and as much of a focus on the preparation as on the ingredients. What remains that's very Duffian is a focus on local ingredients - Duff's was locavore before locavore-the-word existed - a coterie of loyal customers and a vague feeling that rules are actually just suggestions.
A little anarchy in a kitchen is often a good thing.
Editor's note: According to its Facebook page, Duff's last day of service will be June 23. The restaurant will close at 3 pm, after Sunday brunch.
Archive photo of partners Karen Duffy and Tim Kirby (above) courtesy of Antique Warehouse.
