The Luxury of Pinot Noir: A Deal with the Devil

It may be the most highly revered wine in the world, but Pinot Noir is no easy grape to vinify. One goes through hell and back to get the juice. Andre Tchelistcheff, one of America’s most influential winemakers declared that “God made Cabernet Sauvignon whereas the devil made Pinot Noir.”

One of the oldest grape varieties to be cultivated, Pinot Noir is the varietal that makes up the world class red wines of Burgundy (except Beaujolais, which is the Gamay grape). Nowadays, though, many of the Pinots of Oregon, New Zealand, and cooler California A.V.A.’s (American Viticultural Areas) are considered to be on par with their Old World counterparts.

However, Pinot Noir is one of the most finicky wine varietals and here’s why:

— Nearly every affliction known to affect grape vines is common in Pinot Noir vineyards.

— Although very tolerant of colder climates, the grape is particularly susceptible to spring frosts because it is one of the earliest leafing varieties.

— Genetically unstable, the parent vine may produce offspring different in berry size and shape and frequently will display different aromas, flavors, and levels of productivity. Researchers claim there are from 200 to possibly 11,000 clones (genetic mutations) of Pinot Noir. By comparison, Cabernet Sauvignon has only 12 identifiable clones.

— The sharpshooter leafhopper finds Pinot Noir a perfect host. This bug carries Pierce’s Disease which can destroy an entire vineyard in as little as three years. Leaf-roll virus is also prevalent in almost all Pinot Noir plantings over ten years old.

— Pinot Noir vines are not very vigorous and often lack adequate leaf cover to protect the fruit from birds. Even if the grapes survive the birds, if not picked at maturity, the thin-skinned and tender berries shrivel and dry out rapidly resulting in a raisiny aroma and neutral flavor.

— Pinot Noir is also one of the most difficult wines to ferment, often doing so violently, “boiling up” and out of the fermenting tank which speeds the process out of control.

— Color retention is also a major problem for the thin-skinned berries.

BUT…a great Pinot Noir creates a lasting impression on the palate and in the memory. Its fickleness is also a good thing, resulting in a wide range of aromas and flavors: Pinot Noirs from France exhibit a delicateness and earthiness, while its counterparts from California are richer and more fruit-forward. Oregon’s Pinots are generally lighter in color and body, but no less intense in flavor. The aroma ranges from intense raspberry to deep black cherry. Ripe tomato, mushroom, and barnyard are also common descriptors.

Wines that are well made from this varietal are full-bodied and rich but not heavy or high in alcohol. They are neither acidic nor tannic and have substantial flavor while also being delicate. The most appealing quality may be the soft, velvety texture. When right, it is like liquid silk, gently caressing the palate. “Pinot Noir is a righteous grape, chocked full of incredible texture and hedonistic pleasures, it is sex in a glass, so seductive that it is hard to say no to,” said Master Sommelier Madeline Triffon.

This varietal is extremely versatile with food and pairs well with almost everything, hence its reputation as the quintessential “bring along” wine. Pinot goes well with dishes that are smoked or grilled, and with most varieties of fish, including tuna, swordfish, and salmon. It also works well with earthy flavors, vegetables, Asian cuisine, and mild cheeses. But keep it away from stronger fish like mackarel and mussels, overly rich sauces, very spicy dishes, and strong cheeses.

Here are a few of my favorites and the places where I found them:

2010 Domaine Bruno Clair Chambolle-Musigny Les Veroilles Burgundy, France

In 1986, Bruno Clair was entrusted with Les Veroilles (a Premier Cru vineyard in the Chambolle-Musigny appellation of the Côte de Nuits sub-region of Burgundy), the vineyards of his parents, brothers, and sisters.The loose, stony soils here mean that these wines are more delicate and perfumed than those from sites lower down the slope that are more powerful and earthy. This wine possesses a natural finesse and is silky with great texture and length.

$72 at Balaban’s, 1772 Clarkson, balabanswine.com

2010 Spoonbill Pinot Noir Rawiri Vineyard, Marlborough, New Zealand 

Long time St. Louis resident Dave Eatwell and a native New Zealander own Rawiri Vineyard, 16-acres of prime hillside in the heart of Marlborough. Dave made his first Spoonbill wine in 2007 and in 2010 he decided to export his wine, only 150 cases, back to the U.S. and sell it in Missouri. Aged in 25-30% new French oak barrels, it has excellent concentration and balance.

$50 at The Crossing, 7823 Forsyth, fialafood.com

2012 Evesham Wood Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, Oregon

Evesham Wood was started by Russ and Mary Raney in 1986, who earned a loyal following for their spectacular, terroir-driven wines. In 2010, Erin Nuccio and his wife Jordan took over the winery and are continuing its legacy.  Their 2012 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is sourced from dry-farmed (using no or limited irrigation), sustainable and organically farmed vineyards in the Eola-Amity Hills and is one of Oregon’s best Pinot Noir values. There’s a lot of fresh fruit and regional character in this wine with crisp minerality and an overall succulence that just begs for food.

$45 at Annie Gunn’s, 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, anniegunns.com

2012 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California

This year marks Merry Edwards’ 41^st year in the wine industry. She’s been inducted into the Culinary Institute of America’s Vintner’s Hall of Fame and was only the fourth woman to win the coveted James Beard Award for Best Wine, Beer or Spirits Professional in the United States. The Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir from one of the best California producers is a blend of grapes from five different vineyards, a mélange containing both classic California selections and the new generation of Dijon clones that thrive in this region. Very soft and very smooth with a lingering finish.

$42.49 at Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland, parkerstable.com

Sears is sommelier at Sears Wine and Spirits Catalogue and can be reached via email at [email protected].