Photograph by Katherine Bish
After a recent trip (or stumble, as it were) to the cavernous downtown emporium Randall’s Wines & Spirits—under the guidance of wine director John Sears—I discovered a range of styles of absinthe that I never knew existed. Absinthe (a.k.a. the Green Fairy) is one of the most misunderstood liquors on the planet. Loads of propaganda from the European wine industry convinced the world that its principal ingredient, the herb Artemisia absinthium (commonly known as wormwood), had psychedelic properties. The once legal, then illegal, now legal again herb contains a chemical compound called thujone that elicits a miniscule, if any, psychedelic response. The real culprit: absinthe’s 100-plus–proof alcohol level. But properly served, absinthe is the ideal aperitif, the anise flavors perking up the taste buds like little else can.
Absinthe must be diluted slowly to release the aromatics and reduce its potency, a process called louching. The procedure requires placing a slotted, often decorative spoon over a glass containing a shot of absinthe, placing a sugar cube on the spoon, and running chilled water slowly over it into the glass. This triggers a reaction that transforms the drink’s color from pale green to milky white. (A French tower, or fountain, containing several cold-water spigots, elevates louching to ceremony.) The ratio of water to absinthe varies according to personal taste. All of the absinthes below were sampled louched, at a 1:1 ratio.
Pernod aux Plantes d’Absinthe Superiéure (132 proof) $69.99
Bright green color with olive tinges. Sharp, citric top notes of lemon and lime over a lean star anise background, supporting aromas of caramelized fennel, with a sweet, perfumed, delicate finish.
Lucid Absinthe Superiéure (124 proof) $69.99
Light green color with highlights of straw-brown. Super herbal but delicate on the nose, with spicy tones of rosemary, fennel, and star anise. The profile of black jelly beans only grows more intense on the palate.
Absente (110 proof) $42.99
Aromatic nose of the usual suspects of licorice, anise, and fennel, using Southern wormwood, a cousin of the original. On the palate, it turns sweet and creamy, with overtones of lime-braised leeks and loads of licorice. A great entry-level choice as you work your way up to its big brother, Grande Absente.
Grande Absente (138 proof) $77.99
Made with the original wormwood, this is nuclear green in color, with neon-yellow highlights. Super hot (alcoholic) nose with forceful herbs of rosemary, chervil, juniper, and thyme. It’s hurty! After dilution and on the palate, it mellows and becomes soft and round, with a potpourri finish of herbs, flowers, and spices.
