We have all heard of wines that are big, rich, full-bodied, and even…fat. Most of us can infer what those types of wines would be: oaky chardonnay, old Grand Cru white Burgundy, white wines from the Rhône Valley, and whatever brilliance Manfred Krankl from Sine Qua Non might be bottling. But what about the opposite? What about “skinny” wines, those that are crisp, light, and refreshing?
Wines can be described in many ways—smart, ethereal, profound—but until recently, I’ve rarely heard them described as skinny. But why not? The adjective is pretty apt, and it’s one that registers instantly with the public.
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“Skinny” wines, however, are subject to the same disdain as rosé wines. Many men feel it’s not very masculine to drink them—or at least to be caught drinking them. It’s like motor scooters: While they’re a lot of fun, most guys in the U.S. wouldn’t be caught dead riding one.
And that’s too bad, as there’s an ocean of excellent skinny wines available, incredible values priced at $10 to $18 per bottle, varietals like Muscadet, Grüner Veltliner, Verdicchio, Arneis, Picpoul, Chenin Blanc, dry Riesling, sauvignon blanc, and pinot blanc. Their crisp, citrusy profiles offer a subtle and sublime wine experience, one that should not be overlooked. Wine writer Terry Theise reminds us, “Lots of wines, many of them good wines, let you taste the noise, but only the best let you taste the silence.”
Typically, such wines are enjoyed when the weather turns hot, as their refreshment factor tends to complement the lightness of summertime fare. Try Muscadet with oysters, Riesling with raw fish, sauv blancs and Arneis with fruit salads, and Grüner Veltliner with fresh veggies.
Skinny wines serve as great conversation starters for men and women alike: I guarantee that if you say something is “crisp, refreshing, and filled with the flavors of ripe lemons, apricots, peaches, and pears” on a warm summer day, you’ll elicit some kind of dialogue. And you never know: The person you convince to step out of the wine box just might be your next friend or a significant other.
A former sommelier at The French Laundry, Hoel serves as a senior wine advisor for Soutirage, a Napa Valley wine merchant and advisory firm.
Thin Is In: Five Faves
The 2011 Lail Vineyards Blueprint sauvignon blanc, 2011 Jermann pinot grigio, 2011 Pierre Henri Gadais Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Saint-Fiacre, 2012 AV Vinho Verde, and 2011 Nigl Grüner Veltliner Kremstal are among the “skinny” wines worth trying.
