Rombauer is undoubtedly the Goliath of the buttery chardonnay movement, which unapologetically produces one of the richest styles of California chardonnay. It’s the benchmark for the quintessential full-blown, full-malolactic chard, made with forests of French oak. Rombauer swiftly sells through 60,000-plus cases year after year, despite some wine connoisseurs’ cynical perception of the wine’s style.
The buzzword descriptors alone—like malolactic fermentation and 100 percent new oak—have turned many a novice away, as if these terms were negative attributes. This disturbs me to no end, as that same person often will, in the next breath, order a white Burgundy from a modern-style producer and say, “Now that’s chardonnay.”
Let me be clear: I don’t dislike Rombauer chardonnay, not at all, for the same reasons that I don’t hate white zinfandel. To most consumers, both of these wines are pleasurable to drink, and both have drawn non–wine drinkers into the market with their seductive, easy-drinking style. Honestly, I wouldn’t have a job if it weren’t for Beringer white zin, and quite frankly, Rombauer chardonnay isn’t that different. But it’s galactically better to drink.
Here are a few more chards I’d recommend:
2010 Patz & Hall Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($40): This one’s a touch leaner in style, while holding on to curves of ripe tropical pineapple, banana, and mango, with cinnamon and taffy hints.
2010 Paul Hobbs Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($46): You’ve probably seen this wine, but you didn’t know anything about it, because it still flies under most people’s radar. It’s a richly textured wine with moderate notes of baking spices, surrounded by ripe, lemony citrus and crème brûlée flavors.
2010 MacRostie Winery and Vineyards Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($22): Dollar for dollar, you can’t do much better than this wine. Notes of ripe Bosc pear, tangerine, and apricot play well with barrel notes of caramel and nutmeg for a mouth-filling finish.
2010 Pahlmeyer Napa Valley Chardonnay ($67): Made famous by the Demi Moore movie Disclosure, this wine is rich and full-bodied, with massive and concentrated fruit flavors of yellow apple, white peach, and guava, as well as notes of vanilla and white flowers on the finish.
At press time, these wines were available at The Wine & Cheese Place. Vintages and prices are subject to change.
A former sommelier at The French Laundry, Hoel serves as a senior wine advisor for Soutirage, a Napa Valley wine merchant and advisory firm.
