Even though Billy Gaynor's been at the helm for several months, Billy's Roadside Bistro in Wentzville held its Grand Opening just last Saturday night. Honestly, though, it was their honesty that piqued our curiosity.
Ya gotta like a place that that admits to a "near scratch kitchen" (as few restaurant kitchens are 100% scratch); a place that's "family-friendly until 9 p.m., and after that there are no guarantees"; a place where, according to the menu, everything is cooked to "almost perfection," because "perfectionists are delusional and smug" and "we will have no part of that." (This one strikes uncomfortably close to home, as Relish is a Virgo.)
Regardless, several of Billy's menu items have tempted us to leave our rally-squirrel-infested, World Series playoff perch: Billys' onion rings are made with red onions, hand-breaded using Panko crumbs; the steak in the Steak Salad is beef tenderloin; the Fish and Chips is hand-breaded cod (as it should always be, but rarely is); and praise be to Oscar F. Mayer, there's even fried bologna on a toasted hoagie. Having tasted a Philly Cheesesteak Eggroll at an event just yesterday (it was phenomenal, by the way), we are similarly intrigued by "Philly Sticks," a similar offering using rolled, fried tortillas.
The most unusual item, though, may be the signature Billy Bites, your choice of pieces of hand-breaded tenderloin in either beef, pork, or chicken, served atop "dirty" pasta--spaghetti with butter, garlic, parmesan, and bits of browned bread crumbs--a staple in the Gaynor family kitchen. The most expensive entree is a 12-ounce Angus Strip steak at $14.99, with the majority of menu items priced well below that (the Billy Bites are $8.99).
Relish is planning a trip to Billy's in the near future...arriving after 9 p.m., of course. == Billy's Roadside Bistro 1826 W. Pearce Wentzville 636-332-0556 billysroadsidebistro.com Lunch and dinner daily
