What’s your opinion of Provel cheese and how would you attempt to convince a non-believer? Jack W., Wrightsville Beach, NC
We’ll come right out and say it: There may be no more incendiary culinary term in St. Louis than “Provel cheese.” It’s the epitome of a love-it-or-hate-it food product.
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Provel was allegedly developed in St. Louis in the 1940’s by a group of Italian men who were looking for a pizza cheese with some “bite,” and one that “broke cleanly,” unlike stringy, stretchy mozzarella. Somewhere in the experimentation process Ed Imo got involved and it was he who asked to be the sole distributor for Provel in St. Louis. The Hoffman Co. (manufacturers of the cheese at the time), gave him permission to do so. When Ed and Marge Imo opened their first store in 1964, it was Provel cheese (along with a signature thin crust) that made their “St. Louis-style pizza” unique. As an aside, some devotees contend that pizzas made with Provel require less cheese…and therefore such a pizza is healthier for you (which they no doubt use as an excuse to wolf down a 16-inch Deluxe).
No matter, I confess that I like the stuff–in limited uses and quantities, mind you–and have defended Provel even in the pages of St. Louis Magazine, at one point going mano a mano with dining critic Dave Lowry in a point/counterpoint. (Not sure who won that battle but Lowry’s description is worth noting: “Provel is the bastard child of Amoco, the god of oil, and Velvettus, the goddess of potluck suppers.”)
Opinions aside, to convince the naysayers I offer seven dishes that may help sway an opinion.
Serve Provel on…
Thin Crust Pizza – but not in the way you may think. Most pizza joints serving Provel usually have a Provel blend as well– even Imo’s will make a pizza with a 50/50 Provel/mozz blend (the same cheese they use on their pasta). But you have to request “with the blended cheese, please.” Such a pizza has a milder Provel flavor along with the firmness and elasticity of mozzarella.
Mac & Cheese – Years ago, when Cheese-ology, a mac-and-cheese-based restaurant opened on the Loop, a group of food critics tasted five varieties and the favorite was “The Hill,” made with Provel, marinara, and Hill-sourced Italian sausage. It had a creaminess and appeal that surprised us all. (At the time, the RFT dubbed The Hill with “Best Use of the Worst Cheese.”) The next time you make the classic dish, consider substituting some or all of the designated cheese with Provel.
Salad – But not just any salad: the Deluxe at Guido’s on The Hill, iceberg and spring lettuce mix topped with Provel and parmesan cheese, ham, salami, pepperoni, tomatoes, black olives, red onions, and a pepperoncini. In my opinion, with Provel less is often more, so order that salad with “a little less Provel and a little more parm.”
Burger – Consider a burger with melted Provel, such as the “St. Louis Burger” at Dave & Tony’s in Creve Coeur, a premium steakburger topped with with Provel cheese, iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, red onions, relish and Thousand Island on Dave’s special bun. This burger is juicy, gooey, and delicious.
Soup or Pasta – Adding some Provel to a cream-based homemade soup adds a richness and flavor that tasters can’t quite identify. Same goes for a pasta sauce, whether the base is cream or butter/white wine/lemon/garlic, but be judicious. This might sound contradictory, but you don’t want to taste the Provel. Its presence must be subtle
Scampi Dish – This one I created in my own kitchen on one of those nights when only discordant ingredients were available: I cooked up shrimp, scampi-style–with plenty of garlic, shallots, white wine, butter and chives–and served them on top of garlic cheese bread, cobbled together using, once again, a blend of cheeses, the majority player being Provel. I’ve served this item both appetizer- and entree-style, and no one—Provel dissers included—has failed to rave about it. That’ll show ’em…
Grilled Cheese Sandwich – Although I’ve yet to try this (and remain skeptical), a gastronome whose opinion I respect swears that using Provel —and only Provel—on a grilled cheese sandwich, “thick cut from the deli counter, on Bunny Bread” is pure bliss. “Begrudgingly, my wife admitted that it was delicious,” he says, “then proceeded to finish the other half of my sandwich.”
How do you use Provel? Drop us an email ([email protected]) or leave a comment on Facebook.
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