Ask George: What are some of your favorite restaurants now that the weather has turned colder?

“What are some of your favorite restaurants now that the weather has turned colder?” —Laura B., St. Louis

My selection of a restaurant is most certainly affected by the weather—and I don’t think I’m alone when referring to some places as “summer” restaurants and others as “winter.” The parameters for the latter are specific but few:

1. Dim lighting always conveys a cozy, sexy vibe; bright lights do not. 

2. Cushy, upholstered booths and chairs to sink into.

3. A vaulted ceiling with wooden beams and joists conveys a warm, lodge-like feel.

4. No other restaurant attribute says “winter” better than a fireplace. 

5. A breezeway might seem like an odd parameter, but it’s significant. Sit at a table by an unprotected front door on a cold, windy evening and you’ll get our draft, er, drift.

Keeping the above parameters in mind, here’s a list of where to hibernate in the winter months, both high-and low-brow. If we missed your favorite, drop us an email ([email protected]) so we can add it to the list. (Note that we excluded the chain steakhouses, all of which fit the parameters above.) 

Downtown/Midtown:

• Al’s Steakhouse: Inside the iconic 99-year-old restaurant, the decor’s as dark as the char on your USDA prime steak.
• Broadway Oyster Bar: When both fireplaces get fired up (and even when they’re not), BOB is a ragin’, Cajun, rip-roarin’ good time.
• Idol Wolf: One of the top restaurants to bow in 2023, the dining room features a dimly lit arched ceiling which exudes romance and sophistication. Matt Daughaday’s tapas-themed, sharing menu is the perfect complement. 
• Lombardo’s: You’ll find us snuggled into a leather booth, happy as a kid with a Christmas puppy.
• None of the Above (NOTA): Gerard Craft’s speakeasy bar is literally underground at City Foundry STL, accessed by tunnels, which makes the discovery of such a unique space all the more rewarding. Nore that NOTA’s menu is limited to cold items designed to accompany a well-curated list of cocktails and that reservations are very limited, but guests can hop on the wait list either in person or digitally. not accepted. 

The Hill:

• Charlie Gitto’s: We love the patio during nicer weather, but the glowing onyx bar and renovated dining room are as cozy as can be.
• Dominic’s: The classic restaurant and its tuxedoed formality just seems more appealing in winter.
• LoRusso’s Cucina: Start off at the conveniently timed happy hour in the cozy, lively bar (5 to 7 Wed-Fri, and Sun) and take it from there.

CWE:

• Brasserie by Niche / BrassBar: One of the most popular and welcoming bistros in the city, winter or summer. Brasserie’s small bar has Cheers vibes; BrassBar is dark and sexy.  
• Mainlander: The speakeasy-style, prix fixe, pay in advance 18-seater is akin a throwback to your kitchy grandma’s house in the 60s, a dining experience you will tell your friends about. 
• The Preston: It’s spacious and gracious, with a wall’s worth of cozy booths. 
• Tenderloin Room: Enjoy dark woods, tufted upholstery, flaming desserts prepared tableside, and stories about George Clooney when he was a guest in the hotel. 

Central Corridor:

• akar: An expansion in early 2023 allowed owner Bernie Lee to triple the number of seats to 38. The space—romantically lit with flickering candles, cradling chairs, and a tufted gray banquette along one wall—is understatedly elegant.
• Bar Moro: Ben Poremba’s 35-seat tapas-influenced restaurant retains the charm and sexiness of its prior iteration, Billie-Jean, where it’s still hard to choose between a table and seats at the bar.   
• The Benevolent King: Ben Poremba’s Moroccan-themed menu pairs well with a cafe vibe that leans more toward the streets of Tel Aviv.  
• Big Sky Cafe: We love the front patio in the summer and happily retreat to the cozy dining room in other seasons to indulge in one of the most value-packed menus in town. 
• Bistro La Floraison: One of the most romantic addresses in town, and romance knows no season.
• The Cheshire: The quintessential wintertime corner. The Tudor atmosphere and the five fireplaces—all but one of them wood-burners—takes this complex to numero uno on my list. Pick a venue: Basso is rathskeller cool (especially at couch-like table No. 400), The Fox & Hounds Tavern has been a wintertime hangout for generations…even the onsite Starbuck’s has a wood-burner.
• The Crossing: Closely spaced tables exude conviviality. The cuisine (a cross between Italian and French) has been praised since its inception.  
• Cyrano’s: A choice of three flambéed desserts, prepared at a fireside table? Life gets no better.
• Louie: The 70 dinner seats (20 of them at the bar) are usually full, just because everything about Louie—the Italian-leaning menu, the shotgun-style cafe vibe, the polished service—is as good as it gets.    
• Llywelyn’s (Webster): You can’t miss the fireplace inside the front door—and you may not get any further.
• Madrina: We like that Madrina has three different vibes: a lively bar just inside the door, a more genteel dining area just beyond, and a third room where the decibels are noticeably lower. 
• Michael’s Bar & Grill: People call it “the quintessential neighborhood bar and grill” for a reason, a casual go-to that never fails.   
• The Ritz-Carlton: Having cocktails and sushi in the Lobby Lounge is a rite of winter.
• Sasha’s Wine Bar (Demun and Shaw locations): Red wine, cheese, fireplace, and more wine equals good times.
• Sportsman’s Park: For some reason, small neighborhood bars just feel better in winter.
• Tony’s – We tend to find ourselves upstairs, in Anthony’s Bar, often parked at the bar. 
• Wright’s Tavern: Matt McGuire’s hospitality paired with chef Cary McDowell’s straightforward, brief, and perfectly executed menu are the reason that Wright’s is the toughest reservation in town. 

West:

• Annie Gunn’s: A quintessential wintertime watering hole—that happens to serve consistently excellent food. The “snug” tables are the city’s quintessential private booths, and have seen everything from cutting loose to courtship. 
• Il Bel Lago: Owned by Frank and Carmelo Gabriele, this restaurant is classic and spacious, with carpeting that lends a quiet atmosphere.
• Le Champ de Fleurs by Stone Soup Cottage: Now a private dinner event space, it’s pricy but always memorable.  
• Napoli III: Located at the Streets of St. Charles, this Napoli iteration is always busy, but seems less so due to its several small dining areas. 
• Paul Manno’s Restaurant: The lack of a patio and minimal curb appeal belie the sumptuousness, grace, and excellent food within.
• Tucker’s Place: Multiple fireplaces and arguably the most reasonably priced steak in town. Enough said. 
• Westchester: Black walls, candlelit tables, and excellent food translate to  

North:

• Hendel’s Market: The fireplace is in the bar…as you should be. 
• Lombardo’s: Classic and cultivated, this 90-year-old local favorite offers urbane Italian dining. 

South:

• Aya Sofia: The curtained booths exude romance in all seasons, but especially when drawn in the winter. 
• Eleven Eleven Mississippi: It’s absolutely top-of-mind when thinking of an engaging, lodge-like restaurant atmosphere.
• Bailey’s Chocolate Bar: Order an ice cream drink (as in a dark chocolate martini) in the winter. There are warm versions as well.
• Frazer’s: The restaurant’s cozy confines make for an intimate meal. The bar is livelier with the same food. You pick. 
• Hamilton’s Urban Steakhouse & Bourbon Bar: Most steakhouses are massive, with multiple rooms. This Edison bulb–illuminated 60-seater breaks from that tradition. 
• Little Fox: A nicer neighborhood hot spot where two rooms double its appeal 
• The Lucky Accomplice: Sidle into one of the large, coveted booths and retreat into your own little world. 
• McGurk’s: The interior lighting’s nearly as dark as the Guinness.
• O’Connell’s Pub: For decades, it’s been a favorite spot for a perfectly temped burger and a cold beer on a cold winter’s night.  
• Polite Society: Three small dining rooms spell cozy, especially with the old brick walls and dim lighting. 
• Rosé by Peno: It’s new, it’s small, and people love the artsy vibe. You will, too.  
• Sidney Street Café: See also Tony’s, another St. Louis staple for fine dining.
• SqWires: Pair a live fireplace with century old Soulard brick and reasonably priced fare, and you’ll understand SqWires’ long term appeal.  
• Tucker’s Place (Soulard and South County): There are multiple dining rooms and multiple fireplaces at both locations.

Metro East:

• Andria’s Steakhouse (O’Fallon): Fireside tables are reservable.
• Fletcher’s Kitchen & Tap – Belleville:  This neighborhood joint, family-run since 2004, has a cozy year-round patio with a fireplace. One loyalist recs the bourbon glazed salmon, along with grilled zucchini, “one of the best sides in the metro area.   
• Old Herald Brewery & Distillery: Situated inside Collinsville’s former newspaper press and office is a restaurant, bar and special event space that seems old-fashioned and trendy at the same time. And the inventive food is a cut above. 
• Pere Marquette Lodge & Conference Center : Located in Grafton, Il, where a wintertime drive often includes glimpses of bald eagles. Check out the American comfort-food menu and don’t miss the giant fireplace and chessboard. “The Lodge” is a must-do road trip that can’t be beat for historic ambience.

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