Visiting one of this country’s many architectural gems doesn’t have to entail travel through busy airports or hotel reservations in a coastal metropolis. Many of the most alluring design destinations are right here in the Midwest, within a day’s drive of St. Louis. It’s to our advantage that Frank Lloyd Wright’s Welsh roots were in Wisconsin; that Mies van der Rohe was commissioned by a Chicago doctor to build a secluded home in Illinois; that Eero Saarinen’s father accepted an academy appointment in Michigan; and that the Quad Cities selected David Chipperfield’s exceptional design to house its growing art collection. From 1950s Modernist homes to hexagonal churches and towering glass structures along the Mississippi, the region’s attractions for the design aficionado will easily crowd the calendar.
Columbus, Indiana
The Miller House and Garden, 506 Fifth
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J. Irwin Miller commissioned Eero Saarinen to design his family home in 1953 and designer Alexander Girard to create the interiors. The house was named a National Historic Landmark in 2000, but remained in the family until 2008. Marble walls contrast with bright backsplashes and colorful interior design, and the home’s skylights beam light into what could have been this home’s darkest nooks. The house was built with privacy in mind, but it also features a socially oriented conversation pit in the middle of the living room. It isn’t just the building’s architecture and décor that make this destination so appealing: The landscaped grounds are also meticulously maintained. Tours offered year-round; booking 2-3 weeks in advance recommended. Can only visit via 90-minute tour; tickets are required for admission at the cost of $25 per person. Children under the age of 10 are not permitted. Masks required on shuttle from the Columbus Visitor Center and in the house.
North Christian Church, 850 Tipton
Completed in 1964, this Disciples of Christ church is the last building designed by Eero Saarinen, who died in 1961. A cross-topped 192-foot spire towers over the low-profile hexagonal building, whose exterior angles mesh well with those inside—from the organ to the pews to the geometric altar. Can only visit via architectural tour booked through the Columbus Visitor Center; tours offered year-round. Architectural tour runs for 2 hours and costs up to $25 per person. Children under the age of 6 are not permitted. No masks required.
First Christian Church, 531 Fifth
The freestanding 165-foot bell tower of this nondenominational church makes Columbus’ first contemporary building, completed in 1942, a true landmark. It was smartly designed by Eero Saarinen’s father, Eliel (who lost to Eero in the competition for the Arch commission). Open year-round for walk-in visits as well as the scheduled architectural tour through the Columbus Visitor Center. Open Monday through Thursday from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and Fridays from 8:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. Masks encouraged.
Plano, Illinois
Farnsworth House, 14520 River
Set on 60 acres along the Fox River, the Farnsworth House is an icon of modern design. The glass-and-steel rectangle has an open floor plan furnished with Midcentury pieces. Design enthusiasts know that this is the earliest example of this Modernist aesthetic (a box enclosing a flowing layout), developed by architect Mies van der Rohe. He designed the house in 1945 as a retreat for Edith Farnsworth, a doctor from Chicago, who desired a retreat in the woods. Open April–November, Wednesday through Sunday, 9:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Tickets required for tour, purchase online or via phone; reservations recommended. Must check in at the visitor’s center to receive a wristband; prices vary based on tour choice. All non-vaccinated visitors must wear masks.
Davenport, Iowa
Figge Art Museum, 225 W. Second
At first glance you might wonder how this glass shell of a building would effectively showcase works of art without distracting museum goers. But in 2005, British architect David Chipperfield successfully merged form and function in the vast Figge, which flatters itself while quietly supporting what hangs on its walls. The museum embraces its midsize status, reacting nimbly to current events with relevant curation. Don’t miss the contemporary gallery, which has been acquiring work by female artists, including sculptor Vanessa German and painter Grace Hartigan. Open Tuesday–Sunday; free Thursday after 5 p.m. Admission costs up to $10 based on age. Masks required.
Spring Green, Wisconsin
Taliesin, 5607 County Road C
Frank Lloyd Wright’s 800-acre estate and primary residence is considered an abstract of his architectural résumé, with buildings—including a school—representing each formative decade of his career, from the 1910s through the 1950s. The fact that he built the main house for his mistress, who perished in a murder and fire there, adds a curious twist to the grounds. Tour program runs from May through October; booking in advance is strongly recommended. Prices vary based on tour choice. Masks required.
House on the Rock, 5754 State Road 23
For a contrast with the orderly tranquility of the expertly designed Taliesin, take the 10-minute drive down Highway 23 to visit a 1958 house literally built atop a rock. Its creator, Alex Jordan, kept adding rooms to the structure, filling them with such oddities as musical puppets, a carousel, winding staircases, and completely mechanized orchestras. Be sure to walk the “infinity room,” suspended high above the lush Wisconsin valley. Open daily during the regular season of mid-March–mid-November from 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Tickets cost up to $26 based on age. All non-vaccinated visitors must wear masks.
