Design / Here’s what to expect inside The Commissary, Ben Poremba’s home goods store

Here’s what to expect inside The Commissary, Ben Poremba’s home goods store

The Cherokee Street shop is the chef’s personal treasure trove.
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts20201229_TheCommissary_0041.jpg

Chef Ben Poremba originally selected this Cherokee Street storefront as a commissary kitchen for his acclaimed restaurants, including Olio and Elaia. But the COVID-19 pandemic changed nearly everything about operating the dining industry in St. Louis, and he had to rethink what this empty space could become. After settling on a retail store, Poremba looked at his own collection of home goods, furniture, dishware, and pre-loved décor to fill it. Step inside The Commissary, 2744 Cherokee, and discover the origin story of each find.


Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts20201229_TheCommissary_0117%20copy.jpg

Pendant industrial lighting fixture

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“I have been buying a lot of these through the years, and you can see them all over all of my restaurants,” says Poremba. This particular one came from the Czech Republic; Poremba plucked it from eBay. $375.


Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts20201229_TheCommissary_0091%20copy.jpg

Self-portrait

 “You could say this is very personal or sentimental. This is a self-portrait that I did 20-plus years ago. I am no artist, but it is a neat-looking piece,” Poremba says. “Though I don’t know if anyone wants me in their living room.” $1,000.


Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts20201229_TheCommissary_0111%20copy.jpg

Animal hide

Poremba is not exactly sure what animal this one came from but guesses it was a mountain lion: “I drove one day on Highway 55 and saw a sign, ‘Hides for Sale,’ and I bought all these crazy-looking hides.” $225.


Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts20201229_TheCommissary_0065%20copy.jpg

Vintage tin

“It’s the coolest thing,” Poremba says, beaming. “I don’t even want to sell it, to be honest with you.” Once used as a turkey roaster, this large pan is complete with a lid that is locked on by the handles. It used to sit behind the bar at Olio. $75.


Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts20201229_TheCommissary_0096%20copy.jpg

Reclaimed coffee table 

Poremba commissioned this one-of-a-kind piece from St. Louis craftsman and former Junque owner Regan Young: “He took an old cart and built a box and put a piece of glass on top of it, and it’s got the beautiful wheels and everything.” $275. 


Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts20201229_TheCommissary_0086%20copy.jpg

Locally made pottery

Maggie Robertson “makes beautiful pieces that are very thin ceramics,” Poremba says. This set is stamped with old coins. Poremba marvels at the work’s timelessness: “They look like they are a thousand years old.” Prices vary.


Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts20201229_TheCommissary_0056%20copy.jpg

Modern barstool

This handcrafted dark wood barstool was produced by design company Ton and, among others like it, used in Poremba’s now-closed Italian restaurant, Parigi. “They are extremely beautiful and modern,” he says. $500 apiece.


Stanley thermos

“When I had Old Standard, the fried chicken place, when someone ordered coffee, I served it in a Stanley thermos,” Poremba says. “Some were designed 100 years ago, but they were made to last. And it’s just pretty.” $28.