Tie Dye Like a Real Hippie

If you’re anything like me, you’re big into projects that entertain the kids…

I’m way into tie dying, and have been for over 20 years.  Creative colors and custom matched patterns aren’t just for clothes.  Just about anything can be tie dyed.  Just imagine how cute a tablecloth and matching napkins are…buy blanks here.

The very best place to get in depth tie dye instruction is Tie-Dye! The How To Book by Virginia Gleser.  Gleser has excellent pictures and tips for professional results.

Of course, hobby and craft stores have DIY kits.  Just add t-shirts or fabric.  These normally have 3 base colors (red, yellow, and blue) or other variations (turquoise, fushia, and yellow) to mix “custom” colors.  For best results, leave the mixing to the pros.  And, forget Rit.

Rit dyes are made of the same core pigments, but are buffered with chemical additives to speed up the process.  For full saturation, the pros use Procion (fiber reactive) dyes. 

I highly recommend Dharma Trading Company.  For even the most novice tie-dye project, Dharma provides excellent advice, product support, and tools of the trade.  Check out their kits.

Dharma has products that will make your project picture-perfect:  Synthrapol (a pre-wash and after process agent), thickener (makes liquid dye into a gel, perfect for kids), and a fixative (prevents ANY color from bleeding in the wash).

Here’s how to get professional results at home (don’t wear anything you don’t want dyed…old clothes or trash bags with arm holes are a good idea!  Remember, results are permanent, even when accidental):

1.  Use only 100% cotton (no spandex, non natural fibers…and for rookies, no silk or wool.  It’s a different process).  Pre-wash all of your clothing and fabric to be dyed in HOT water, long cycle.  If you have Synthrapol, use it per the instructions (1/4 cup per load).  DO NOT USE “regular” detergent or fabric softener.  Dry your items in a HOT dryer.  If you use fabric softener sheets, wipe your dryer thoroughly with a rag dipped in vinegar and water to remove residue.  Textiles are made with “sizing” and other finishes that can dull the colors of your project.

2.  I like to pre-fold (tie) off my projects.  I never use string, only rubber bands.  Surf the net and find lots of tips, but for a classic swirl…pick the center of your swirl, and pinch that spot.  Turn clockwise, or counter, and keep that center pinch going.  A wrist will only turn so far, so release, line up again, and continue twisting until the item looks like a pinwheel.  It’s best to do this on a flat surface.  Using your fingers “define” the pleats of your pinwheel.  They can be uniform or more abstract, but they need to continue the length and width of the item.  The hardest part are the seams.  Use a paper clamp or clip to hold those secure until the item is secured.  Tighten the pinwheel until it is about size of one of those ginormous cinnamon rolls at the mall. Carefully place rubber bands across the pinwheel, and criss cross the bands until several are holding the item together.  Remove any clamps or clips.

3. Fill a bucket with warm water, and add soda ash.  Most commercial tie dye kits include soda ash.  Use a paint stick or twig to agitate the mixture and dissolve the soda ash.  This is an important part of the project.  Soda ash changes the pH of the water, and when fabric is added?  It opens the “pores” of the cotton fibers to allow for more complete and brilliant absorption of pigment. Place your folded and secured items in the bucket to soak for 5-10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, prepare your dyes.  If you purchased a kit from Hobby Lobby/JoAnn/Wal-Mart, the squeeze bottles have a chemical called urea pre-loaded.  If not, Dharma kits have urea in a pellet form.  FYI, urea is, yes, urea salt almost identical to urine.  It’s not safe to breathe, and can irritate skin.  Wear gloves, and a mask.  If you purchased from Dharma, hopefully you bought some thickener as well.  Add the gooey gel (a few tablespoons goes a long way) using a tapered funnel.  Add warm/hot water, and shake the bottle to mix.  Test the squeeze action of your bottle.  Thickener, or even a too tiny hold can hamper how much die is released.  Trim the hole with scissors if necessary, and remember…just a tiny trim increases the flow exponentially.  More is less.  Rinse any powder or residue from your gloves. 

5.  Spread drop cloths or old towels in the area you are dying (hopefully outside to enjoy this beautiful St. Louis summer).  I line a disposable plate with four layers of paper towels.  Carefully pull your items from the soda ash bath, and let the excess run off in a sink or outside of your work area.  Squeeze gently if necessary.  Lay your item on the plate.

6.  Apply dye from the squeeze bottle.  Use the tapered nozzle to work into the folds of the fabric.  Remember to go deep…turn the item over, repeat…keep gently squeezing dye on the area in sections (think slices) until the full thickness is fully saturate.  Ever made a tie dye that turned out mostly white?  This is why!  More is more with dye, but apply it carefully and with precision.  Don’t forget the primary color rules…yellow + blue+ red = brown, and this applies in tie dye.  Avoid red/green, blue/orange, or yellow/purple transitions, as the dyes will bleed and commingle in the fiber and end up BROWN.  Unless you want brown, and then go nuts.

7.  Lay the project in a warm sunny area to set up. (I wrap it in a few layers of paper towels and place in a gallon baggie. This amplifies the heat for more vivid colors.)  Allow projects to “cure” for 24 hours. 

8.  Rinse.  Don’t forget your gloves and old clothes or a smock again!  Rinse in warm, and then progressively cooler water.  Begin by saturating and squeezing entire tied bundled.  When the bulk of the dye is running clear, untie your project.  Keep rinsing and squeezing until the water runs truly clear.  Toss it in a hot wash, add more Synthrapol and dry on HOT again.  If using a fixative, follow exact directions.  The use of Synthrapol will eliminate any color bleed onto other items.  You’re done! 

And, just for you…a tie dye earworm.