Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
It is, certainly, a lovely room, elegant in its simplicity. Panorama, the new restaurant inside the Saint Louis Art Museum’s East Building, has an all-glass wall on its north side, although there are no views of the Grand Basin and the skyline beyond. Still, the line of trees outside adds its own geometry to the decor. The high, coffered ceiling tries hard to contain sound, with certain spots being quieter than others.
But what of the food? Panorama’s appealing-sounding menus, which change every month or so, emphasize local ingredients. After starting lunch with some warm rolls, we sampled several soups. The onion soup is cheeseless and slightly sweet from the long-cooked onions; the potato soup features kernels of fresh sweet corn, a nice touch. The soups tasted as though the chef used identical stock for both, though, not just because of the seasoning, but also because they were both amazingly salty. The potato soup, in particular, could have been a delight with less salt.
Multigrain Companion bread is the base for a turkey sandwich that includes avocado, Swiss cheese, grilled red onion, and bacon, among other things. Overall, the combination is pretty tasty. And the toothpick holding each half of the sandwich doubles as a skewer, with interesting nibbles on each. Greens, lightly dressed with a red-wine vinaigrette, come alongside.
How do you resist heritage pork meatballs? Don’t. Served with grilled polenta triangles and a tomato sauce studded with mushrooms, fresh basil, and a hint of red pepper, the meatballs are great. Sadly, the salt fanatic in the kitchen rendered the sauce almost inedible when we tried it.
During another visit, at brunch, the salt was under good control, as was everything else. The warm rolls were bacon-cheese brioche, absolutely delightful. Scrambled eggs, soft as ordered, rode with a potato gratin with cheese and a little onion—first-rate—and a square of pork belly that was brined, seared, and roasted to unctuous perfection. The fish of the day, a halibut, was
carefully grilled and positioned on a slice of watermelon, topped with a slaw-like, vinegar-dressed mix of red onion and celery. The onion and watermelon complemented each other well, and the crunch made a nice contrast to the fish’s texture.
A pastry basket included, among other things, wee muffins with fruit in the center, biscuits flavored with cinnamon sugar and chocolate chips, and cinnamon rolls. The small croissants, served soggy rather than crisp, were the only downer.
If the salt maniac has been exorcised—which appears to be the case since that initial visit—Panorama should provide the museum’s new building with some excellent eating. And the service is exemplary, just what you’d expect in any high-end restaurant. But do make a reservation: SLAM’s often slammed with visitors these days. And note that the $15 fee to park in the garage drops to $5 if your check exceeds $10.
Saint Louis Art Museum
1 Fine Arts, Forest Park
314-655-5490
Lunch Tue–Sat, dinner Fri, brunch Sun
