Uno
The arepas. These Venezuelan cornmeal cakes made from landrace Bolita corn processed in house brought new tastes to the table. The flavor and texture of the corn cake alone is pretty special, but Público kicks it up with a variety of toppings guaranteed to thrill taste buds.
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We chose shredded duck gizzard with a green apple salsa and a tasty chipotle morita. The gizzards, tender and sweet, play off the fruit-forward flavor of the morita chilies. The tart apple salsa sparkles with a topping of mint and chives.
If duck gizzard isn’t to your liking, Público offers two additional toppings for these tasty cakes, as well as more familiar fare like whitefish tacos, tacos al pastor, and carne asada.
Dos
Over the top pinto beans get their taste from hearth grilled lamb drippings. Possibly the creamiest beans ever, thick and full-flavored with a hint of heat and a whole lot of pop, a must-taste dish. Topped with queso fresco, mint and chives, consider them lush pit beans with a Latin flair.
The beans arrive at table in a shiny two-handled pot seated on an old-fashioned plate. We drew a vintage silver-plate oval platter, but Público mixes vintage serving pieces with formal white ware for interesting tabletops.
Tres
The restaurant is a visual feast. The design delights at every turn, but the wow factors never overwhelm. Instead, the space reveals itself by degrees through the bar and dining room to the open kitchen and glowing hearth. There’s a custom community table in the front window, its live edge softly curved; and large-scale tree sculptures accenting the booth seating. The trees (right) create a sheltering presence and transform the tall space into a a more intimate setting. Such design choices suggest rusticity but speak modern sophistication.
The lighting pools, splashes and creates light curtains throughout as floating panels drop and recede. The backlit quatrefoil panels on the bar base complement the hexagonal designs on three large white globes animating the front window space. The chameleon-like space seems both classically modern and fun, yet androgynously romantic. Eclectic art echoes agrarian foods, urban energy and Latin sensibilities. Kudos to SPACE Architecture + Design for the design work.
Cuatro
Chef and owner Mike Randolph takes guests on a culinary joyride with Latin, Central, South American and Island influences. He combines simple, time-honored cooking techniques with not-so-standard ingredients like lamb liver butter, huitlacoche, goat cheese crèma and tender lamb hearts with blackberries and cascabel peppers. Don’t miss the beet salad, the Plato de Carne with its house made sausage, paté, and lamb liver butter.
Texture, color and the myriad flavors of chilies, herbs and spices made for delightful eating. For example, Randolph adds toasted quinoa to the salad of red, gold and chiogga baby beets (right) with two sauces, a white chocolate mole, and a green salsa verde. He throws in three thin radish bites for a piquant touch. He tucks in crisp sheets of fried beet greens for color and texture. Every dish exhibits the same attention to detail.
His menu is both adventurous and accessible, with dishes that challenge and selections that comfort, a delicate balance, well-played at Público.
Cinco
Hospitality ruled on opening night when General Manager Jack Noecker personally visited each table. He circulated the restaurant with ease and grace, delivering plates, chatting briefly with customers. He took time with the staff, too. Seven long months of construction and creative hard work came down to a week of soft openings to the first night of service. Noecker’s hospitable presence added to the special food and drink we enjoyed opening night.
Público
6679 Delmar
314-833-5780
Tue-Sun: 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.
Facebook: Público
