St. Louis is teeming with breweries, but Companion Kombucha is the only one producing Apple Cinnamon Kombucha instead of American Pale Ale. Perhaps Companion will become the Schlafly Beer of the local Kombucha scene as popularity of the slightly bubbly, health-promoting, fermented tea is soaring. Some predict the $600 million kombucha industry will become a $1.8 billion industry by 2020.
Tom and Tricia Nieder (right) started Companion Kombucha about two years ago and things quickly took off. “It’s something I believe in,” says Tom, “something that’s intrinsically good.”
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Companion is currently sold in 43 locations (such as Dierbergs, Straub’s, Lucky’s, and local health food stores) from Edwardsville to Wentzville…and Tom Nieder says they’re barely promoting their product: “We could be in a heck of a lot more, but just haven’t been able to do it yet.”
Although kombucha has been brewed for thousands of years, it didn’t enjoy mainstream popularity in the U.S. until relatively recently. Most national kombucha brands are based in California, but cities like Austin, Denver, Columbus, and St. Louis are home to kombucha brewing startups.
Although positioned to do well as they jumped on the kombucha wave early, starting a business is never without its challenges. The Neiders created Companion in January 2014, rented a space in June of that year and reached a critical juncture in December 2014 when Tom quit his healthcare industry job to devote his full attention to the business. Companion Kombucha officially launched on April 1, 2015, and business accelerated on Earth Day just a few weeks later.
Companion delivers kombucha to all 43 outlets by Prius and it’s been a race to keep up. The Nieders are poised to triple production space, from 600 square feet to 2,000. They’ll also be working with a local distributor, minimizing Tom’s time in the Prius. COM KOM will soon be available in local Whole Foods Markets, the kombucha crowd’s Mecca.
Companion is currently brewing and bottling five flavors: Elderberry, Ginger, Apple Cinnamon, Pomegranate, and Lavender. The Apple Cinnamon might be the best entry level flavor for kombucha beginners with its mild, cider-like flavor. The Ginger is beloved by hardcore ginger fans, but it will be too strong for others.
The Nieders take great pride in the quality of their product. “We use real ingredients,” says Tom. “If you see flavors on a label [of other brands], even if it’s organic, they all come from a flavor factory.” By using ingredients like real lavender and ginger, there are slight variations in each batch and bottle, but Companion takes pride in its artisanal approach.
While most are welcoming a healthier drink option full of gut-boosting probiotics, “Big Soda” has not been so friendly. Nieder said one such company flexed its contractual muscle when Companion tried to get onto a local college campus. Even though the international company doesn’t sell kombucha, they kept the local brand from competing with their sugary lineup of sodas, juices, energy, and sports drinks, not unlike the rift between Big Beer and Craft Beer.
Nevertheless, the growth of kombucha isn’t showing any signs of slowing. Although Nieder says most people he talks to are unfamiliar with kombucha, there’s a growing band of believers who attest to the health benefits of the product. As quickly as we see trendy health foods take off, kombucha appears to have a bright future – especially since it doesn’t taste like kale.
Johnny Fugitt is author of The 100 Best Barbecue Restaurants in America (and brews his own kombucha at home).
