Photo by Ann Lemons Pollack
St. Louis native Danny Meyer's influence continues to grow. Not only is the founder of Union Square Hospitality Group now a part owner of Panera, but he also recently opened a much-anticipated, Italian-inspired restaurant in the heart of the Big Apple, at 100 Manhattan West Plaza.
Ci Siamo (pronounced chee see-AH-moh) translates as “here we are,” implying readiness, or “this is what it should be” (along with several other uses). Meyer has always been enamored with Italy, including its food and culture, so the concept fits right into his passion.
Photo by Ann Lemons Pollack
The restaurant is located on the west side of Ninth Avenue, between 31st and 33rd, in a new development called One Manhattan West. (The entrance isn’t visible from Ninth; a quick stroll west through a plaza and a left turn is required—a helpful map is on the restaurant's website.)
Inside, the space curls gracefully around a corner. Tall windows offer breathtaking views of the Empire State Building and the glitter of Manhattan at night. The bar offers a relaxed vibe, with low tables, soft chairs, and a wood-burning pizza oven. An open kitchen is visible from much of the dining room. Fittingly, the bustling atmosphere resembles a Roman trattoria.
Photo by Ann Lemons Pollack
The menu partially consists of shareable dishes with generous portions, including prosciutto and pizza. The pizette, half of an 8-inch square sans cheese, wears a richly tomatoed sauce, with generous hits of garlic and a rustic crust. Gnocco fritto, resembling a savory beignet, is filled with whipped gouda. The roasted mushrooms, with large chunks of the dish's namesake, show evidence of a little lemon and fresh thyme, as well as a hint of garlic. Like the Pizette, it's a relatively simple dish and a reminder that the menu will feed both the cautious eater and the more adventurous. The latter, for instance, might enjoy the caramelized onion torta, what appears to be a whole round loaf of bread with a creamy onion filling and topped with browned pecorino cheese.
Photo by Ann Lemons Pollack
Salmoriglio, the Southern Italian sauce that begins with lemon and olive oil, blesses a piece of lightly smoked swordfish. The Ci Siamo version adds chopped artichoke to the classic sauce, as well as a little Calabrian chile.The results are irresistible, the sort of dish that’s impossible to stop nibbling. There's also a noteworthy roasted half chicken with schmaltz and sunchokes, as well as pastas, including cavatelli with lobster, a stuffed pasta called topini, and several vegetarian options.
As for dessert? Pastry chef Claudia Fleming's return is big news. After making her reputation at Gramercy Tavern, she now serves as executive pastry director for Union Square Hospitality Group. The stunning textures of the chocolate budino alone are worth the calories. The dessert is somewhere between a mousse and a cake, velvety and moist. Deeply chocolate, it's dressed, like a cashmere stole, in an espresso zabaglione sauce. Toasted, salted almonds are the equivalent of a grand piece of jewelry, and incredibly thin shards of chocolate punctuate the ensemble. Not one of those desserts with pastry and ice cream and some elaborate confection, it's instead a cohesive, carefully crafted way to finish a fine meal.
Photo by Ann Lemons Pollack
The wine list is Italian, of course, with interesting by-the-glass choices. The dialog with the server as I searched for something that would stand up to the swordfish was a delight. I ended up trying three tastes and found a perfect match, Pavese Blanc de Morgex de la Salle. Nicely zippy to stand up to that salmoriglio, it uses prie blanc grapes, found only in the Italian Alps.
Ci Siamo doesn’t take reservations at the bar (which offers a smaller menu), so a spontaneous visit when they’re booked is still a possibility. The restaurant's welcoming and delicious, no matter where you’re sitting.
