Vic Damone is crooning. The lighting is subdued, beguiling. A Glenlivet scotch, old enough to vote, is being poured at the next table over. We’re hovering over a chop of veal Milanese that’s literally the size of a hubcap.
Welcome to Napoli 2.
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Outside, a patio overlooks Town & Country Crossing. Inside, it’s cool—very cool. The interior’s outfitted in gray tones, with granite tabletops and artfully arranged seating that makes conversation easy. Yet one never forgets that Napoli 2 is a bustling, lively restaurant. An expert tends the bar, where you won’t mind lingering over an impressive list of cocktails.
In a city saturated with Italian eateries, attention to detail is one factor that separates the great from the merely good. The pastas are fresh and handmade. Thick, golden tagliatelle strands are exquisite, with just enough firmness. They’re spun into a glossy Bolognese sauce that’s savory, slow-cooked to bring out the delicate sweetness of vegetables and beefy richness of the meat. Spaghetti gets a less extravagant treatment, glistening with white wine and olive oil and tossed with clams in a classic presentation.
Subtle tweaking also elevates the restaurant. Brussels sprouts taste pan-roasted, to show off their sweetness, but they’re jacked up with bits of pancetta and a dark balsamic vinegar dressing. Crusty, yeasty bread, reminiscent of the Italian countryside, arrives before your napkin’s unfolded.
Try the stack salad: a tower of fried eggplant with a huge tomato slice, mozzarella, fresh basil, roasted red peppers, and balsamic vinegar. It’s inventive, the flavors wonderfully blended. The calamari is fried crisp and salty, and the arancini balls are potato chip–crispy with a cheesy interior.
The Liver Napoli, smothered in onion-laced gravy, has a loyal following. Other carnivores find happiness in the thin-pounded beef medallions, covered with eggplant slices, mozzarella, and a tangy tomato sauce. Then there’s that veal chop: beautifully flattened, breaded, pan-fried to a crunchy brown crust and topped with a full salad of arugula and cherry tomatoes and a flurry of freshly shaven Parmigiano Reggiano. Consider splitting the generous, spectacularly enjoyable portion.
A side of broccolini was overcooked, rendering it harsh and bitter. On a busy Saturday night, after we received perfectly timed appetizers and salads, the wait for secondi piatti was delayed. Otherwise, the service was snappy and friendly. The wines are worthy, with several ideal matches to the food. And bread pudding with a RumChata sauce is the perfect finisher.
The Bottom Line West County has few Italian restaurants of this caliber—and even fewer where Vic’s still crooning.
