Well, we created a bit of a contretemps at Casa de Tres Reyes. It concerned a mosaic, a fantastical one of billboard dimensions, composed of tiny, brilliant tiles dominating one wall of the place. Two of its three kings are obviously facing twin Elvises (Elvii?). In the middle, looking straight on was, exactly…who? We asked. The staff conferred, argued. It got heated. It was “some King Edwards” a waitress ventured. No, it was “Neptune,” suggested another. Nuh-uh, insisted a waiter. It was the departed gorilla Harambe. Seriously.
We recall the Mexican eateries in St. Louis that had respectable histories—specifically those of the Casa Gallardo empire—those handful of places located a long, satisfying hike up from the endless comida rapido taco joints. The relatively new Three Kings takes its place on those heights. The interior is inviting and comfortable, designed with half walls that break up the space and allow tables to be widely separated. The bar, with its comfortable stools, glows. In fact, lighting here overall is warm and relaxing, and we noticed patrons were in no hurry to leave—especially with that tequila selection beckoning. But what separates Casa de Tres Reyes from similar Mexican eateries?
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Mexican cuisine can sometimes be formulaic. No one says, “Whoa, this place has rice and beans!” To find the exceptional requires a close look at the menu, and doing so quickly reveals some worthwhile fare here. The yuca fries are to regular fries what a Stradivarius is to a Del Gesu. Which is to say both are great, but the true deep-fry connoisseur recognizes the superior élan of the yuca. They’re irresistible dipped in a garlic-sharpened aioli in a starter that leans South American. The guacamole is pure Mexican, though; it’s thick and creamy, with enough body to glom onto the chips.
The presentation of an elote appetizer is impressive, the corn’s kernels shaved then arranged around the cob with queso, cilantro, a roasted garlic aioli, and tajín. The last is an amazing seasoning of lime, salt, and chiles that we’re seeing more and more, on both plates and cocktail glass rims.
Like many Americans, you probably worry about getting enough tacos in your diet. If so, the Casa has the cure for what ails you. Tacos are clearly the house specialty. They’re so generously laden they’re a bit unwieldy; you may have to assume that “lean over the plate to catch the flotsam” position to eat them. Corn tortillas are sourced from City Foundry STL’s Sureste, another top-notch Mexican destination. And rather than offering several versions, the focus is on a half-dozen highlights.
Savor, if you will, all of the implications of these words: “pork belly carnitas.” Domino cubes of confit-tender piggy tummy are jumbled into a tortilla along with sweet, tangy pico and a jalapeño-cilantro sauce, splattered with housemade crema. These could be the most luxuriant tacos in town. Smoked brisket tacos are only slightly less extravagant, the brisket flaky-moist, with a light glaze, along with a squirt of queso, tomatillo jam, and just enough cilantro to add an herby edge that cuts the lush fattiness of the meat.
Carne asada is more familiar, taco-wise, but a garlic aioli bumps up the flavor. In the chorizo and potato variation, the starchy potato chunks are a soothing influence over spicy sausage. A real standout are the tacos loaded with chicken—smoked Peruvian style and chopped—and grilled pineapple, with a roasted tomatillo dressing. The same chicken appears in a “Signature Entrée” quesadilla along with grilled onions, white cheddar, and tomatillo salsa. Other specialties include a steak with sautéed peppers and enchiladas stuffed with chile-braised chicken.
But what really distinguishes the Three Kings is its tequila selection, nearly 40 varieties, from the young to the beautifully aged. The staff here sounds well-versed in the spirit, and we heard some thoughtful recommendations. It’s surprising that such an excellent tequila selection doesn’t have more bar space, but the idea—a good one—is that the restaurant’s tables offer a comfortable place to relax for some after-dinner sipping—and debating about that third king. (Who we think is definitely beloved game show host Wink Martindale.)
