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Carmen Troesser
Slow-roasted elk loin at Balaban’s
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Kevin A. Roberts
Lamb rack at Acero
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Kevin A. Roberts
Prasino
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Corey Woodruff
Tasso pork chop at Juniper
Juniper
Previously, chef and owner John Perkins changed restaurant concepts every few months. But Juniper, his Southern-style hipster haven in the CWE, should be here for a long time. Great cocktails, envelope-pushing food, and a vibrant scene offer no need for future changes. 360 N. Boyle, 314-329-6796, junipereats.com.
prasino
Rarely does a restaurant that attempts to be all things to all people succeed at such a formidable task. But prasino does. It’s also serious about its eco-friendliness. And it offers a late-night menu. The interior is often lively, while the patio allows you to escape the hustle and bustle at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 1520 S. Fifth, St. Charles, 636-277-0202, prasino.com.
Trattoria Marcella
Trattoria Marcella’s consistency, hospitality, and quality Italian food have kept the out-of-the-way destination one of the most popular around for nearly 20 years. If naming the place after his mom wasn’t authentic enough, co-owner and chef Steve Komorek was trained in Italy, where he learned the secret to the soul food found there. 3600 Watson, 314-352-7706, trattoriamarcella.com.
Home Wine Kitchen
The changing weekly menu of seasonal sides, entrées, and starters at SLM’s 2012 Restaurant of the Year reflects chef Cassy Vires’ versatility and culinary finesse. And don’t ignore the creative promotions like No Menu Mondays, which require patrons to answer questions that guide the chef’s creation of a prix-fixe dinner to noted specifications. 7322 Manchester, 314-802-7676, homewinekitchen.com.
Farmhaus
Some find it ironic that a restaurant named Farmhaus may be best-known for its seafood dishes or one simply named Nachos—but no one is complaining, either. At noontime, the KISS principle applies: It’s the daily Blue Plate Lunch or nothing. Ten dollars buys you iced tea, salad, and homey dishes like rolled meatloaf and fried chicken. 3257 Ivanhoe, 314-647-3800, farmhausrestaurant.com.
Eleven Eleven Mississippi and Vin de Set
Like any first child, Eleven Eleven Mississippi has set a high bar for its younger siblings, Vin de Set, the 21st Street Brewers Bar, and PW Pizza. Paul and Wendy Hamilton’s Tuscan restaurant has remained a sure thing for special occasions and power lunches while gaining attention for its meat-centric specials on Wednesday nights. Vin de Set, the second child, followed in its older sibling’s footsteps in terms of excellence, but it rebelled—as so many younger children do—toward French cuisine in a more casual bistro setting, with a rooftop bar that’s renowned for its views of the city and trendy patrons. 1111 Mississippi, 314-241-9999, 1111-m.com; 2017 Chouteau, 314-241-8989, vindeset.com.
Balaban’s
One of St. Louis’ most legendary restaurant names lives on in Chesterfield, featuring classics like beef Wellington and cucumber bisque from the original CWE location. And an adjacent wine store allows you to drink bottles purchased there on the premises for an $8 corkage fee. 1772 Clarkson, Chesterfield, 636-449-6700, balabanswine.com.
The Tavern Kitchen& Bar
It’s no longer uncommon to have the option of dining within view of the kitchen, but we’ll always have a soft spot for the sleek counter overlooking The Tavern’s frenetic workspace, led by chef and partner Justin Haifley, and all of the delicious sights and scents that emanate from SLM’s 2011 Restaurant of the Year. 2961 Dougherty Ferry, Ste. 101, 636-825-0600, oghospitalitygroup.com.
Brasserie by Niche
We love alliteration at Brasserie almost as much as brunch, when the Brasserie burger hits the menu, or dinner, when the braised beef is served. A best bet is often a seat at the busy bar, accompanied by your beloved and a bottle of French Burgundy or Bordeaux. Don’t miss the non alliterative gougères—which always leave us breathless. 4580 Laclede, 314-454-0600, brasseriebyniche.com.
Oceano Bistro
Oceano Bistro serves up smooth service and imaginative preparations of quality seafood that thankfully doesn’t arrive overcooked. Equally comfortable for business meals and Sunday brunch, this staple in Clayton is a good reminder of why seafood restaurants were once a big deal from coast to coast. 44 N. Brentwood, 314-721-9400, oceanobistro.com.
I Fratellini
One can’t go wrong with any of Zoe Robinson’s restaurants, but for authentic Italian food in an elegantly chic setting, I Fratellini wins. Beware of first dates here: Even the most ill-suited suitor will seem like a soul mate thanks to the sexy food and romantic ambience. 7624 Wydown, 314-727-7901, ifratellini.com.
Five Bistro
Chef Anthony Devoti’s devotion to local and sustainable ingredients has made Five one of the area’s most consistently superb restaurants—and arguably the most organic and local one. The addition of Devoti’s ever-changing pop-up “restaurant within a restaurant” only builds on the existing philosophy. 5100 Daggett, 314-773-5553, fivebistro.com.
Cardwell’s at the Plaza
For destination dining, Cardwell’s delivers with entrées like the seafood stew and slowly smoked baby back ribs. Those looking for a quick bite will be sated by smaller fare, such as the savory goat-cheese torte. In both instances, this place is beloved for its consistency, casual refinement, and convivial atmosphere. Plaza Frontenac, 1701 S. Lindbergh, 314-997-8885, billcardwell.com/cardwells.html.
Acero
Deceptively simple pastas (including the signature egg raviolo) and a short list of entrées make this spot in Maplewood one of the best Italian experiences in town—and a $30 tasting menu is one of the best values around. Not only is there a superior selection of Italian wines, but many are also available in third-of-a-bottle quartinos. And there’s no corkage fee when you bring in Italian wines of the 2000 vintage or older. 7266 Manchester, 314-644-1790, fialafood.com/acero.
Bar Les Frères
Like Meryl Streep at the Oscars, Bar Les Frères could win just about every restaurant category it enters: best bistro, most romantic, best ambience and service, best for a small lunch or dinner gathering… Owner Zoe Robinson originally wanted the restaurant to be the waiting area for I Fratellini, located across the street, but both places are bustling. 7637 Wydown, 314-725-8880, barlesfreres.com.
Truffles
Featuring Modern American Cuisine from über-talented chef Brandon Benack, Truffles pairs a superb dinner menu with an internationally-acclaimed wine list. Experience Benack's talents again at Truffles Butchery next door, home to classic as well as more esoteric cuts of meat, many of them aged in its Himalayan pink salt-lined dry-aging room. 9202 Clayton, 314-567-9100, todayattruffles.com.
Robust
The shareability of Robust’s menu at all three locations is what sets it apart. Cheese selections, charcuterie, flatbreads, tasting plates, and entrées (called Robusters) pair well with the lengthy list of cocktails, beers, and wines. And the wine bar is accommodating to both large groups and couples. Multiple locations, 314-963-0033, robustwinebar.com.
LoRusso’s Cucina
Over the past 28 years, chef-owner Rich LoRusso has assembled so many signature items—pork osso bucco, cioppino, the wild mushroom trio—you could toss a dart at the menu and hit a memorable dish. 3121 Watson, 314-647-6222, lorussos.com.
Remy’s Kitchen & Wine Bar
The fact that Lisa Slay has been the executive chef here since the restaurant’s inception speaks highly of the nearly 20-year-old restaurant in Clayton. Her small-plates menu, paired with a Wine Spectator award–winning wine list, is the model of consistency. 222 S. Bemiston, 314-726-5757, remyskitchen.com.
Paul Manno’s Cafe
The hospitality is trumped only by the food. Mamma Concetta’s recipes are beloved by regulars, including the sports crowd. It’s a wonderful throwback experience. (Reservations are highly recommended.) 75 Forum Shopping Center, Chesterfield, 314-878-1274.