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Is there a difference between calamari and squid? —Lisa L., Ballwin
It depends on who you ask. Years ago, I wondered the same thing. I did some research and came up with conflicting answers.
The most common (and accepted) explanation is that calamari (which means "squid" in Italian) is simply the culinary name of dishes containing squid.
"That's exactly right," says Blair Halpern of Fortune Fish & Gourmet. "It's no more complicated than that."
Others opine that the two are associated with different species within the class cephalopoda. This article claims that “squid is cheaper and tougher; calamari is more tender and expensive.” But most culinarians and fishmongers agree that’s akin to splitting hairs.
“Those two words are like ahi and tuna,” says Mike Vujevic of Bob’s Seafood. “Ahi is a type of tuna, but the two terms are often used interchangeably.”
In any case, squid is amazingly versatile, available all over the world, and prepared in myriad ways. The body, called the mantle, can be cut into strips, sliced into rings, or stuffed whole. Often the breaded and fried version that’s ubiquitous in American Italian restaurants contains the delicate tentacles as well.
(Don’t confuse squid with octupus. Although both are cephalopods, octupi have a richer, meatier taste and denser texture than the milder-tasting squid.)
Squid should either be cooked fast over high heat or low and slow. Anything in between will produce overly tough results (which, unfortunately, is all too common).
In St. Louis, the most common preparation is calamari fritti, a lightly breaded plate of squid rings and tentacles, or fritto misto, a mixed fry of seafood and vegetables. Several Italian restaurants, such as Guido’s, serve fried strips and tentacles. At Anthonino’s Taverna, both strips and tentacles are from fresh, wild caught squid, and can be ordered fried (pictured at right) or sautéed. At Lombardo’s Trattoria, fried strips are sided with garlic butter and marinara. Café Napoli serves fresh squid rings and tentacles two ways: fried, as a traditional fritto misto; and sautéed in a spicy tomato sauce. “I love calamari,” says co-owner Kye Pietoso, “but it’s so easy to screw up. It's often over-breaded or over-cooked, sometimes both.”
Courtesy Mai Lee
One of the most popular dishes at Mai Lee is the salt and pepper calamari, scored rolls of spiced, tempura-fried squid served with sautéed onions, green peppers, and scallions atop lettuce garnished with halved, sliced tomatoes.
Courtesy Katie's
Straying a bit from the centerline, the blue-black squid ink (used as a defense mechanism) also adds a briny, savory flavor to sauces and pastas. The Black Spaghetti, a best-seller at Katie’s Pizza & Pasta, includes squid ink-flavored fresh pasta, prawns, scallops, clams, lemon butter, Calabrian chilies, gremolata, and salmon roe.
At Peno, chef-owner Pepe Kehm slow-braises octopus in its own juices and adds tomato sauce, Calabrian chilies, and house-made sausage. The reason for the aside? It’s by far the most tender octopus dish in town.
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