If you seek relief from hipsterdom, visit Al’s Restaurant (1200 N. First, 314-421-6399, alsrestaurant.net). Located north of Laclede’s Landing, it’s a solitary lighthouse that quietly awaits those in the know. Al’s isn’t retro—it just is. Last year, the restaurant celebrated 88 years.
It began with Al Barroni Sr. doing egg sandwiches for blue-collar guys. In due time, the neighborhood changed, and so did the way that the Barroni family did business. It became a steakhouse. The front-of-house folks donned tuxedos.
The kind, elegant owner presided over a room that welcomed senators and sports figures. Unlike most steakhouses, it never seemed to reek of testosterone; still, it was a place where überguys went to celebrate. Referees and umpires, in particular, have always seemed partial to it.
After trying a written menu at one time, the restaurant is back to its traditional approach: a recitation of options, as well as hauling out an immense tray of steak and seafood to show off main courses. (Regular customers were frequently incensed by the “uncivilized” idea of a paper menu.) Remember, this is still a kitchen that will fix whatever you want as long as it has the ingredients on hand—yes, even if it’s not on the menu. And no, there are no prices mentioned unless you ask.
When you visit, don’t miss the onion rings. Like the murals in the bar that evoke the riverfront of generations ago, the rings bring back memories—in this case of those at the former Parkmoor drive-in.
Al’s isn’t a set from Mad Men. It’s the real thing.
