Hear more from Bertke on the ‘Arch Eats’ podcast.
For the past few years, Chris Bertke has made a name for himself as one of St. Louis’ most essential vegan chefs through stints at various restaurants, pop-up events, and a frozen pizza line. Now, he’s putting down roots with his own restaurant, Vegan Deli & Butcher (5003 Gravois), which opens this Saturday, October 28, in the Bevo Mill neighborhood. For Bertke, the deli is a mix of emotions—something that he never dreamed would happen but an endeavor that feels like it was what he was meant to be doing all along.
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“When I started out, I never thought I would have the means or enough of a community of people who would actually want what I make to make my own restaurant possible,” Bertke says. “But obviously, there are quite a few people who like it. I feel like the fact that this worked out is pretty awesome.”
The Food
Alhough Bertke has become known for his whimsical vegan versions of fast-food—his riffs on Jack-In-The-Box tacos has a cult following—he’s tackling a different genre of casual dining at his new place: a vegan take on the quintessential East Coast deli.
The menu includes bagels sourced from overnight shipments from New York City and adorned with traditional deli trimmings, such as cream cheese and lox (see lead photo). Instead of salmon, however, Bertke makes the lox from carrots that have been brined with kelp powder for 48 hours, imparting a sea taste on the veggies. Capers and fresh dill accent the colorful dish. Sandwiches include a Cuban (made with vegan smoked pork) and a Maine-style lobster roll. One of Bertke’s favorites, a Boston Beef (pictured below), is served on a bagel and topped with cheddar cheese and James River Barbecue sauce.
The deli also offers pastries, such as cookies and muffins, as well as a variety of coffee and soft drinks. Fans of Bertke’s wildly popular frozen pizzas will be happy to learn that they will regularly be available at the deli, as will an assortment of heat-and-serve offerings. Bertke has even applied to have his deli kosher certification, which he hopes to make official as soon as it’s granted.
“This is simple food—not fancy,” Bertke says. “Basically, I’m just re-creating a classic deli and making it vegan.”
The Atmosphere
The restaurant occupies the South City storefront that once housed the original location of J’s Pitaria, in the shadow of the iconic Bevo Mill.
Bertke has created a warm, inviting space, with taupe paint, exposed brick, and memorabilia on white wooden shelves. A handful of dark-wood tables are adorned with fresh wildflowers, and a silhouette-style mural of a pig chasing two humans with a cleaver in the shadow of the Arch is a tongue-in-cheek nod to the restaurant’s plant-based ethos.
The Backstory
Bertke first started garnering buzz in the St. Louis food scene as executive chef at the now-shuttered Utah Station, a mostly vegan restaurant that showcased his vegan fast-food dishes, including tacos, Big Macs, gyros, and sloppy Joes.
After leaving Utah Station, he garnered a regular following at various pop-ups, then briefly partnered with Peace, Love & Coffee in St. Charles before deciding to pursue his own frozen pizza venture. Eventually, he landed a corporate role with Native Foods, a California-based vegan food brand, with the eventual plan to help the company open a St. Louis location. After the company was sold and the St. Louis location was abandoned, however, Bertke’s sister connected Bertke with his now-landlord.
Seeing the space made Bertke’s vision for a deli come to life. He decided it was time to finally take the leap and open a place of his own. He admits that it’s been a lot of work, but he’s happy to do it—not for himself but for the people who have grown to love his food over the years.
“What makes me glad to do this is, for some reason, I have this crazy loyal group of people who follow what I do,” Berkte says. “They are all super-nice people who come out when I’m doing pop-ups and give me hugs and sometimes even bring random gifts. That’s why I decided to keep cooking and doing what I am doing. At this point, it’s not about me. Yeah, I need money to have an income, but this is more about the people who care about my food.”
