Order Siluriformes, Then Dig In

Neon Memes • Unlike my colleagues St. Louis Magazine dining editor George Mahe and restaurant critic Dave Lowry, I have absolutely no epicurean street cred, to coin an oxymoron―no junkets for me to swank restaurants like Robust (227 W. Lockwood, 314.963.0033). My tastes, figurative and literal, lean more toward somewhat less posh eateries, and last Friday, during a mini vacation once more to the family farm, I hit one such: Perryville, Mo.'s American Legion Post 133 (98 Grand Avenue, 573.547.4588). Whenever possible, my parents and I visit (OK, storm) the post, which stands just a few blocks from the picturesque town square, far, far from anything like the hurly-burly of St. Louis. On Fridays―Perryville's a good Catholic burg, after all―Post 133's lunch buffet features deep-fried catfish, and for a measly $6.50 apiece, I can treat Mom and Dad to a loosen-the-belt-and-put-the-LTD-on-autopilot-back-to-the-farm meal. With all due respect, George and Dave can keep the Spanish chorizo and pâté de campagne, whatever their multitudinous virtues. Me? Gimme deep-fried catfish. I c'n eat me some catfish. ―Bryan A. Hollerbach, Managing Editor