For the month of May, we’ll visit restaurants new to us, though some of have been around for a good, long while. These aren’t restaurant reviews, not by a long shot; instead, consider ‘em experiential looks at spots that’ve somehow flown under the personal radar. Check back every Wednesday for another entry, or dig back into the monthly archives for past editions.
It’s possible that someone could still be upset about the loss of Riddle’s Penultimate Cafe & Wine Bar, making them a bit reluctant to finally check out its successor, the new(ish) Three Kings Public House (6307 Delmar, 314-721-3355). It’d be understandable, as the former restaurant, under the auspices of chef Andy Ayers (and, later, his daughter KT Ayers), was a leader in bringing regionally sourced foods to a centrally located venue. And the music, too, was an appeal for many, with a blend of roots, jazz, and blues, playing the small, window-front Riddle’s stage on a nightly basis.
But all good things must pass, and Riddle’s is now but a memory, a key checkmark on a list of those linchpin businesses that helped make the Delmar Loop what it is today. (RIP: Burrito Brothers, Paul’s Books, the Varsity, Streetside Records, 20th Century Books, Cicero’s Basement, etc. and so on...) Reaping some of the benefits of these forebears are new endeavors like the Three Kings, which has taken the long, expansive Riddle’s space, creating a new, contemporary feel within its multiple rooms.
Actually, Three Kings nods to the way things used to be even on the exterior, where a booming outdoor trade still exists. On our visit last Saturday evening, the tables outside of Three Kings were completely full, as were the booths that run along the interior of the eastern wall, half-shells that have the occupants facing the rest of the room in any intriguing (well, unusual) fashion. The folks closest to the door can watch the passing human parade, as well as the televisions above the bar; that bar remains in place, just to the right of the doorway, with about a dozen barstools for both dining and drinking.
As the space continues, you can select a booth or a table deep in the main dining room, which precedes a mid-sized party space, which was in use as we arrived this weekend. The dining area, meanwhile, was also booming, with an audience that seemed heavy on Washington University students, either graduates or those whose parents were in town for a pick-up and a bit of tourist action. Indeed, almost every table seemed a mix of young and old. And, true, the space is designed with a not-too-flashy, everyone-should-be-welcome vibe. In fact, looking about the room shows that care was taken to blend in a bit of the familiar (some reproductions of classic Delmar photos) while adding some small, tasteful beer signage (from independent and craft brewers) and just a few splashy touches, like a large, hanging light fixture (which some classy folk might call a chandelier).
The menu, too, is meant to satisfy a wide variety of tastes, it appears, and our order went for the veg-friendly in three courses: a really nice flatbread; a respectable, basic green salad; and a veggie burger with fries, all of which was duly appreciated and finished. A flight of spring beers cost $8, with a round of four selections, and that’s a policy that you can take to work against a number of Three Kings’ beer selections, as small pours go for $2 per. We upgraded to full, American micro-brew pints after the flight disappeared and our amiable server, Jay G., even offered us a taste of his cheesecake. It was a nice touch, and service was top-drawer through the whole experience, featuring several familiar faces from other Delmar spots; Jay G. even reminded us that St. Louis Originals cards were welcome at payment time, which was a second nicety extended.
On the way out, we noticed another interesting, little touch that was missed earlier, with the small gangway between Three Kings and the neighboring building also featuring some additional outdoor tables, with fun lighting above the seats. But by 7:30 p.m., the parent-kid mix had moved on and the next crop of people hadn’t yet settled in, creating an interesting gap in the middle of a weekend night; the outdoor area was still busy, but not “Wash U. busy,” the delineation line for all nights in the Loop.
Our timing, perhaps, was just right, catching the wave of the night’s business and seeing that the place has an act down now. And that shouldn’t be a surprise. It’s not a completely new restaurant any more, even if some of us needed a little more time to finally break down and experience it.
There’s no reason, really, for Three Kings to apologize for not being Riddle’s. The Loop’s always moved on, and Three Kings is a cool spot. It’s alright, most definitely.
