
Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Hamachi Crudo at Sardella
For this Italian raw-fish dish, Sardella executive chef Brian Moxey looked to the classic pasta alla puttanesca—and then reimagined the presentation of the tomato, olives, capers, and anchovies. The last ingredient is fitting for the restaurant, part of Gerard Craft’s Niche Food empire, whose name refers to an Italian sardine sauce. 7734 Forsyth.
1. Tomatoes: The tomato crossing the plate in a thin line has been roasted in a wood oven and chopped to a tartare consistency. “These are a stage to lift the fish off the plate—they just give the dish some depth—and provide a gentle acidity,” Moxey says. 2. Hamachi: You might know it as yellowtail or amberjack. In Japan, it’s hamachi. Either way, it’s a firm raw fish that complements the other textures in the crudo. “I love the mouthfeel,” Moxey says. “It’s a rich, clean-tasting fish.” 3. Vinaigrette: Each slice of fish is seasoned with a vinaigrette of garlic oil, lemon juice, and the Italian anchovy sauce colatura, plus a little bit of sea salt. Moxey sources his colatura through specialty shop Ditalia. 4. Breadcrumbs: Panko—Japanese-style finely ground breadcrumbs—top the tomatoes. Puttanesca might call for standard red pepper flakes, but these have been fried in Italian Calabrian chili oil. The breadcrumbs lend not only a bit of heat but also texture against the soft tomatoes. 5. Capers A classic puttanesca ingredient, capers are first drained to remove some of the brine before being sizzled in soy oil. “It’s another layer against the soft, buttery fish and tomatoes,” Moxey says. 6. Olives Why dehydrate the olives? It concentrates the flavor and imparts a fun brittle texture to the dish. 7. Garnish: Parsley tops each piece of hamachi.
Cacio e Pepe at Pastaria
Parmesan, pepper, and pasta: The alliterative triumvirate of Italian edibles is nowhere more grandly rendered than at Gerard Craft’s bustling Clayton dining spot. The kitchen’s talent here is routinely extolled. What’s nearly as enjoyable is the atmosphere: lively as a Bronx wedding reception, convivial, comfortable, and, like the dish itself, eminently worthwhile. 7734 Forsyth.

Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Sweet Tea–Brined Turkey Leg at Grace Meat + Three
Chef Rick Lewis wanted a quintessentially Southern dish that could spotlight an underused product from poultry supplier Buttonwood Farm: “They sell tons of boneless, skinless turkey breast, but what happens to the legs and thighs?” In this case, the legs are brined in Kaldi’s black tea, turbinado sugar, and herbs for 24 hours, then cooked, sous vide, with butter, garlic, thyme, and bay leaves for 14 hours. They’re best served with the white Alabama barbecue sauce. 4270 Manchester.
Roasted Venison at The Crossing
The 20-year-old Clayton stalwart is busy every night for many reasons, not the least of which is chef Thu Rein Oo’s ability to create stunning, flavorful dishes. Our current go-to is the incredibly mild tri-tip cut of New Zealand venison that’s first marinated before being roasted. What began as a tasting menu quickly became a menu staple and is served with different seasonal accompaniments. 7823 Forsyth.

Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Feijoada at Cinder House
It takes a serious dish to compete with the distractions offered by the setting here, surely among the most dramatic in town. Atop the Four Seasons, the view is stunning: the soaring Arch and the river curving like a chocolate ribbon beneath it. That bowl of pork belly, rice, and beans—the iconic stew of Brazil—will keep you entertained as well. Visit on an evening when you can enjoy a cocktail on the fabulous patio, then dig into that wonderful feijoada. 999 N. Second.
Shishito at Small Batch
At Small Batch, blistered shishito peppers ride atop jasmine rice and shiitakes, flavored with a tamari reduction and mirin. The peppers are mild, except for an unpredictable one in 15 (an anomaly known as “shishito roulette”), which only adds to the enjoyment. 3001 Locust.
Lobster Steak at Grand Tavern
David Burke is one of those internationally known chefs who seem to have won every culinary award in the world except Best Rhubarb Pie at the Missouri State Fair, so trust him when he says he can turn a 2-pound lobster into a “steak,” one so special, it’s only available on certain weekends. It’s become an instant legend, right up there with the show-stopping Clothesline Bacon starter. 626 N. Grand.

Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Pork Osso Buco at Polite Society
Pork osso buco, the second most popular dish at Polite Society since its inception, costs far less than its lamb and veal counterparts. The restaurant sells the 24-ounce shank for $27, a small price to pay for dinner, and in almost all cases, leftovers. 1923 Park.
1. Shank: A massive pork shank is slow-braised for six hours, then finished sous vide in the braising liquid, leaving it fall-off-the-bone tender. 2. Polenta: Herb–and–goat cheese polenta from local farm-to-restaurant purveyor Eat Here St. Louis includes the “Scarborough Fair” herbs—parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme. 3. Goat Cheese: Executive chef Thomas Futrell likes to use “visible ingredients in their raw state” to reinforce their use elsewhere in the dish. Case in point: the goat cheese crumbles scattered over the dish. 4. Greens: Wilted arugula and radicchio dressed with balsamic vinegar are a piquant counterpoint to the unctuousness of the pork. 5. Garnish: Garlic–and–preserved lemon gremolata, made with gluten-free panko, adds final texture and a bit more acid. A sprinkling of Maldon sea salt elevates the flavors. 6. Tomatoes: Baby heirloom tomatoes, halved to bite size, are marinated in sherry vinegar, adding an acid balance to the dish’s rich baseline. 7. Microgreens: Fresh micro basil is used for its capacity to complement other herbs and visually brighten the dish.
Curried Cauliflower Steak at Hamilton's Urban Steakhouse
Ribeye. T-bone. Cauliflower? Yeah, a vegetable “steak” sounds weird. But a thick slab of cauliflower—grilled and slathered in a curry sauce with roasted peppers—is so intensely flavorful, it’s easy to forget to ask, “Where’s the beef?” Follow it with a glass of Eagle Rare bourbon for the best steak dinner that never mooed. 2101 Chouteau.

Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Starburst Summer Rolls at VP Square
“Unexpected” is the word that comes to mind. Thin slices of red strawberries peek through the rice paper wrapper that also encases crab, shrimp, and vermicelli noodles. “It’s not only beautiful but also flavorful,” says owner Victor Pham. “My brother and our chef, Duncan Pham, is creative like that.” Try the summer rolls as a prelude to the Hawaiian Poke Bowl, with ahi tuna, salmon tartare, avocado, and tempura seafood over rice. 3611 Juniata.
Khao Soi at Fork & Stix
If there’s one dish that consistently flies under the radar in St. Louis, it’s the khao soi at Fork & Stix. The tiny Delmar Loop eatery serves this underrated Thai noodle soup with big flavor. A spicy curry-based broth is filled with thick egg noodles and topped with pickled greens, red onion, and a tower of fried egg noodles. The soup really hits the spot in winter, but it’s comfort food at its finest year-round. 549 Rosedale.
A Man Named Tomato
Tony White, a.k.a. Tony Tomato, is making it OK for St. Louis diners to eat tomatoes in the winter. A local farmer and supplier, White brings hydroponic tomatoes to such restaurants as Louie, Boundary, Basso, Annie Gunn’s, Mia Sorella, and Trattoria Marcella through his business, Tony’s Family Farms. He works with Mighty Vine, a farm outside Chicago, to provide local chefs with large, juicy tomatoes that work in dishes ranging from caprese salads to hamburgers. “I’m in the beautiful position now of having a lot of customers,” he says. “If I don’t have the capability to grow something myself, I can assure farmers, ‘Hey, this is a good investment with a distribution channel.
Chicken at Louie
Louie’s Chicken doesn’t read like much on the menu, but once in front of you, like everything else on that menu, it’s a perfect version of a simple-sounding thing. The skin is roasted crisp; the taste is so intense, it’s as if the chef has injected a chicken with even more chicken flavoring. A perfectly cooked portion of rapini, the finest cruciferous vegetable, sits beneath a chicken jus (think a solera of chicken stock). It’s simple and delicious. 706 DeMun.
Glazed Spare Ribs at Billie-Jean
It’s tough to choose a favorite from the skillfully curated menu at Zoë Robinson’s dimly lit modern hideaway on Wydown. There are duck spring rolls, baked quail eggs, grilled swordfish… Among the most memorable dishes, though, is one that might at first seem commonplace compared to the other offerings. Executive chef Ny Vongsaly takes barbecue to the next level with a mahogany glaze that makes you consider skipping those other dishes altogether and ordering another round. 7610 Wydown.

Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Bibimbap at Kounter Kulture
Part of the appeal of bibimbap, the popular Korean rice bowl staple, is its versatility. A combination of different fresh and pickled vegetables can be used and may change seasonally. Kounter Kulture offers this dish twice a year: In winter, look for pickled or warming combinations; in summer, the vegetable selection explodes in color and texture, thanks to Tower Grove Farmers’ Market. 3825 Watson.
1. Red Onions: Sweet red onions from Double Star Farms are quick pickled to maintain the natural sweetness and crunch. 2. Rice: Kounter Kulture is always looking for ways to showcase regional products, such as the long-grain rice sourced from McKaskle Family Farm in Braggadocio, Missouri. 3. Egg: The soft-cooked egg from Blind Star Farm is garnished with bias-cut scallions and togarashi. Chef Mike Miller makes the fresh spice blends in house, providing more zip. 4. Tuna: Sourcing sushi-grade tuna can be tricky. Kounter Kulture gets sustainably caught fish from a “green list” supplier or doesn’t get fish at all. 5. Seaweed: Besides adding brilliant color and a distinctive crunch, the seaweed from Bob’s Seafood is “fresher and just better,” says co-owner Chris Meyer. 6. Kimchi: The kimchi is made in house. The ferment process takes four to six months, so the fall cabbage crop from Biver Farms can be used through the winter months. 7. Bok Choy: Bok choy from Three Rivers Farm undergoes a longer pickling process than the sweet onions, producing a zestier bite. 8. Tomatoes: Tony’s Family Farms grows vegetables year-round, including these large fire-red hothouse cherry tomatoes.
Pork Chop at Annie Gunn
Any backyard chef knows that a pork chop is more difficult to cook than a porterhouse, so we’re always amazed that the 1-pound-plus offering here arrives juicy, tender, and perfectly pink throughout. The roasted Heritage hog chop is served with Maker’s Mark–caramelized cipollini onions, Brussels sprout slaw, and smashed sweet potatoes.16806 Chesterfield Airport.

Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Wu-Tang Clams at Yellowbelly
Forget pineapples and poi. The real taste of Hawaii is in Portuguese sausage, a spicy, porky delight sparked with paprika. Its addition here is the perfect “local” taste, enlivening the sweet, plump Manila clams. The broth, smacked with Chinese wine, is a pool of smoky sea. When the toasted bread for dipping runs out, you’ll slurp shamelessly. 4659 Lindell.
Pork Belly Porchetta at Farmhaus
Creating fresh wintertime dishes at farm-to-table restaurants in the Midwest can be a challenge, but the culinary team at Farmhaus has succeeded, creating “a pork dish that’s not heavy,” as owner Kevin Willmann describes it. The porchetta is first brined in ginger, mint, and orange juice and zest before being slow-cooked and rolled, cornucopia-style. A fennel/kohlrabi slaw with citronette brightens the dish, and a bed of chermoula-spiced root vegetables adds just the right level of intensity. 3257 Ivanhoe.
Getting Dirty
Anne Lehman is something of a jack-of-all-trades, but her green thumb is what stands out to local chefs. Lehman, who once had a career in the music industry and Olympic-style weight lifting, changed gears when she moved here and turned her backyard into an urban farm, called Dirty Girl Farms. Herbs, crops, and edible flowers from Lehman’s farm go into some of the city’s best restaurants, including Kounter Kulture. “The breadth of what she does is amazing, and her knowledge and passion is incredible,” says Kounter Kulture co-owner Chris Meyer, who previously worked with Lehman at Blood & Sand. “Anne is the only person in town who has that range of selection.”
Surf and Turf Sushi Roll at The Tavern
Daily deliveries of fresh Hawaiian ahi tuna are the key to this appetizer’s popularity. The tuna is rolled with tempura asparagus and nori paper inside sushi rice that’s made in house. Beef carpaccio is gently flamed and wrapped around the rolls. A trio of dressings—sriracha aioli, kabayaki sauce, and togarashi butter—completes the presentation, adding layers of taste. “It’s a really good mix of sweet and savory,” says general manager Megan Meyer. 2961 Dougherty Ferry.
Shrimp & Grits at Sister Cities
Chef Travis Parfait doesn’t believe in wimpy grits and limp shrimp. He’s invented grits cakes, muscled with Cotija and Provel cheeses and griddled into croquettes. Parfait adds a St. Louis kick with barbecue and hot sauces in the shrimp gravy. “People share this dish—and most of our dishes—all the time,” he says. “Every menu is a tapas menu if you eat out with friends.” 3550 S. Broadway.

Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Pulpo at Nixta
The best dish at chef/owner Ben Poremba’s Nixta is also one of the best-selling: the pulpo. Bon Appétit put it on the map when it called the octopus the best in the country. The secret? The simplicity, Poremba says. “Most people grill it or put it on the plancha, but the quick frying to sear and crisp up the outside helps a lot.” 1621 Tower Grove.
1. Octopus: The octopus is first blanched and then steamed with absolutely nothing for two to three hours. “To order, we crisp it up in the fryer and coat it in a spice mix with coriander and sea salt with pulverized Mexican ants,” Poremba says. 2. Salsa: Peanuts, almonds, hazelnuts, and dried chilies and coriander are cooked very slowly in olive oil to create salsa macha. Nixta’s version includes black garlic. 3. Potato: Like the octopus, the potato is first blanched, here in a vinegar-water solution until just firm. Then it’s smashed, deep-fried, and coated with the same salt as its tentacled plate-mate. 4. Greens: “We always like to have a vegetal or leafy garnish,” Poremba says. Sometimes it’s romaine lettuce. Sometimes it’s pea shoots. Here, it’s wild watercress, which lends a peppery layer to the dish.
Avocado Toast at Juniper
Union Loafers’ Light & Mild sourdough is toasted and drizzled with olive oil, then adorned with buttery avocado, herbs, pickled beets, and golden and Chioggia beets. Top it all off with an egg or country ham, and enjoy it with a breakfast-style cocktail. 4101 Laclede.
Proper Produce
Michael and Tara Gallina brought new ideas to St. Louis’ dining scene—and some new produce. While in New York, Michael helped develop several super-flavorful varieties of squash, beets, and peppers. Recently, he introduced guests to the 898 squash and the floral-not-searing Habanada pepper. This winter, on Vicia’s tasting menu, look for roasted Koginut squash with compressed apple, fennel, candied pecans and seeds, feta, and grated raw chestnut. 4260 Forest Park.
Cod at Elaia
What Aaron Martinez simply calls “cod” is simply delicious. Before gently steaming it at 200 degrees, the chef marinates Icelandic cod fillets, firming them up. Seconds before delivery, smoked trout roe and parsley stems are added to an enhanced silky fish fumé, which is spooned over the rolled fish. The current accompaniment—smoked fingerlings, fresh clams, and parsley salsa verde crowned with aerated potato puree—echo the entrée’s other components. 1634 Tower Grove.
Daikon Radish Dish at Savage
Chef Logan Ely specializes in the unexpected. Consider the daikon radish dish, served on a purée of oysters and house-made miso and topped with a dusting of Penicillium roqueforti. (Ely inoculates bread with Roquefort mold and then propagates the mold by putting the bread into a high-humidity environment. Finally he dries the bread before turning it into a powder that’s distinctively medicinal but uniquely delicious.) 2655 Ann.

Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Soft Shell Crab Bao at The Bao
Crunchy-tender soft-shell crab beckons in the lounge-like confines of The BAO. Lolling beneath eel sauce and other ingredients, the sandwich is almost irresistible. Pair it with the stunning tom ka soup and pretend you’re in a swank hideaway on a Manhattan side street. 14 N. Central.
Little Gem Salad at Union Loafers
One of the most talked-about dishes in St. Louis is…a salad. A simple one. A case in which quality products and texture equal excellence. It’s hard to say which component makes this salad special—the fresh dill, the pickled shallots, the sprinkled breadcrumb, the saltiness of the lardons, the buttermilk dressing… We’re just happy in comes in a large size, or we’d be forced to order two. 1629 Tower Grove.
Chicken-Fried Brussels Sprouts at The Chocolate Pig
The CWE sweet spot is still fairly new, but the restaurant’s chicken-fried Brussels sprouts have quickly made a name for themselves. The dish pays homage to chef Patrick Russell’s Southern training: A buttermilk dressing base is topped with crispy charred sprouts and confit lemon and pickled onions. It’s the perfect prelude to the acclaimed desserts by pastry chef Tyler Davis. 4220 Duncan.

Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Rabbit Porchetta at Sidney Street Café
Few restaurants in town consistently serve as many uncommon proteins, both on and off the menu, as Sidney Street Café, where James Beard Award–winning chef Kevin Nashan has gained a loyal following over 15 years. A menu staple for some time, the rabbit porchetta—with creamy polenta, giardiniera, green tomato butter, and a mustard jus—demands repeat visits. 2000 Sidney.
1. Whole Rabbit: Porchetta usually refers to a boneless Italian pork roast. Chef Bob Zugmaier’s creation uses the same technique, minus the pig: A whole rabbit, bone out, is sliced flat and then stuffed, rolled into a log about 2 feet long, and sliced again into rounds. The rabbit is sourced locally from Grand Army Farm. 2. Glaze: The amber sauce topping the meat is a rabbit stock that’s been reduced with whole-grain mustard, shallots, and garlic. 3. Stuffing: Cut into the meat and find mushroom duxelles—a French preparation that just means finely chopped with shallots and garlic—chorizo, and kale. “Rabbit can be pretty dry,” Zugmaier says, “so chorizo is going to have fattiness to give it moisture.” The mushrooms and kale add earthiness. 4. Giardiniera: “We weren’t shooting for this necessarily, but the dish turned out super-Italian,” Zugmaier says. “We get inspired by the seasons.” What they had available: carrots, chilies, and cauliflower. All three make up the giardiniera that tops the locally sourced creamy polenta. Also in the mix are slices of king trumpet mushrooms. 5. Green Tomato Butter: In the summer, when Zugmaier was conceptualizing the dish, he had a bunch of green tomatoes from the restaurant’s garden to use. He smoked the bounty and made a green tomato butter of them. They look like little dots in the creamy polenta, also sourced locally. 6. Greens: Greens plucked fresh from the restaurant’s garden top the polenta.
Pide at Balkan Treat Box
First served in their food truck, Loryn and Edo Nalic’s signature dish, baked to order in a wood-fired oven, is a boat-shaped flatbread base stuffed with minced beef and cheese. The pide is topped with ajvar, a tangy red pepper paste, and served with a side of pickled cabbage. The dish takes food-truck fare to a whole new level—and the Nalics are taking their business to similar heights, opening a brick-and-mortar location in Webster Groves. 8103 Big Bend.

Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Tête de Filet at Gamlin Whiskey House
The impressive tête de filet combines several popular complementary tastes: an herb-seasoned 1881 Omaha Hereford Beef filet mignon, Gamlin’s signature mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus, crispy onions, and Boursin butter. The gracefully presented dish has become the best-selling item. 236 N. Euclid.
Braised Beef Cheek at Reeds American Table
After making a name for himself cooking upscale comfort food at Taste, chef Matthew Daughaday has taken the cuisine even further at his own restaurant. The warm Maplewood space is filled with an even warmer front-of-house staff. The beef cheek, served with oven-roasted tomato and arugula and made unctuous with the addition of foie gras crème, has been on the menu since the beginning. 7322 Manchester.
Wintertime Wonders
Thanks to Stone Soup Cottage’s onsite greenhouses and hoop houses, chef/co-owner Carl McConnell is able to serve a Greenhouse Crudite—even in the winter months. Depending on what’s available, guests might be offered a variety of lettuces, French breakfast radishes, broccoli, cucumbers, and cherry tomatoes, as well as baby carrots, turnips, and beets, served with an herb-and-cheese soufflé. “It’s the last thing guests expect to see at a Missouri restaurant in February,” says McConnell. 5809 Highway N, Cottleville.
Cheese Curds at Olive + Oak
Chef Jesse Mendica turns out more complex dishes at her acclaimed Webster Groves restaurant, but it’s the cheese curds—in a nearly mandatory starter that’s been on the menu since day one—that exemplify her attention to detail. The glorious beer-battered orbs of cheese are served with charred-scallion aioli. They’re best enjoyed at the bar as you sip a drink and anticipate the meal to come.102 W. Lockwood.
Omakase Dinners at Nippon Tei
Among the most incredible of St. Louis’ dining adventures, this generous parade of bite-size courses includes sushi and some amazing surprises. With his relaxed delivery, chef Nick Bognar produces specialties like a magician effortlessly conjuring the most jaw-dropping of tricks. (Seating’s extremely limited, so reservations are a must.) 14025 Manchester.