The six local women interviewed for this series (in a series of articles here) did not agree on how to solve the problem—or that there even is a problem—of women in the industry going unrecognized compared to their male counterparts. In the literature about women chefs, a possible solution arises: groups designed especially for women.
One such group is Les Dames d’Escoffier. I talked with Beth Heidrich, the co-founder of the St. Louis chapter, to learn more about how the group supports local women in the industry.
In 2008, Heidrich, who now owns and operates St. Louis Culinary Tours, was working as the PR director at L’École Culinaire. At the same time, Heidrich and several other women were tapped to attend the annual international Les Dames conference in Dallas. From that meeting, the idea to begin a St. Louis chapter was born. A short time later, 40 area women in the industry came together for a brunch with Iron Chef Cat Cora as a keynote speaker. Of the 40 women, 25 were invited to be dames, and the chapter has grown to over 50 members in the last 8 years.
The primary goal of the organization is philanthropy, according to Heidrich, who said, “We want to raise as much money as we can; give away as much as we can in the form of scholarships." The scholarships are awarded to women interested in culinary school and farming, with a $5000 scholarship specifically for an EarthDance Farms intern. Heidrich said, “We support our members who are doing good things in the community.”
Current dames include Molly Rockamann, EarthDance’s founder; Sunny Schaefer, executive director of Operation Food Search; Veronica Baetje, co-owner of Baetje Farms; Holly Cunningham, owner of Hollyberry Catering and Nourish; Judy Bellos and Cecily Hoffius, co-owners of Ces and Judy’s Catering; Arlene Browne, co-owner of Robust; Jennifer Johnson, vice president at Chaumette Winery; Dee Dee Kohn, co-owner of Edgewild Restaurant; and Rose Beckerle, sales account manager at Companion.
Ironically, the list is devoid of women chef’s names, and the few women chef members, like Cassy Vires, in charge of the Teaching Kitchen at Companion’s new location, have stepped off the restaurant line. Heidrich explained why: “Five years in a leadership position as an executive chef is pretty tough for young women,” adding, “Chefs never have time and we need people who have time to participate.”
In 2012, the local chapter hosted the annual international conference that culminated in a Farmer’s Fete at the World’s Fair Pavilion in Forest Park. Area farmers and chefs were paired, with emphasis given to the farmers. Responsible for a dish, each pairing brought attention to the local culinary scene. Heidrich shared that approximately 325 people attended the conference, which ran several days. Only two women chefs were featured at the fete, but several women farmers participated; given the growing number of women chefs in the area since then, one imagines that more would be able to participate in a similar event in the future.
Next year, Heidrich wants to hold a “rising star” chef event for women at the sous chef level and below. As a member of the women-only group, she noted the importance of holding such events only for women, stating, “There’s no ‘good ol’ girls’ club’ like there’s a good ol’ boys’ club in St. Louis.”
As several of the women interviewed for this piece expressed, some female chefs are wary of joining all-women groups, arguing that they continue to emphasize gender differences and distract from talent. Others believe that the only way minorities like women will gain access and recognition in a white, patriarchal society is through such groups and efforts.
Focusing on gender alone can be problematic, as illustrated in late-night host Samantha Bee’s mock press conference in which a reporter asks her what it’s like to be a “female woman.” There’s also the spam my male colleague keeps receiving from The International Women’s Leadership Association, sponsored by “Her-Spectives,” a distracting coinage demonstrating failed good intentions.
At the same time, this is happening. And this. And this. In the face of such incidents, it’s difficult to argue against women’s second-class-citizen status and the need for change.
All of which brings us back to where we started: where are the women chefs? Clearly, they’re out there, perhaps not in as great of numbers as men, but they’re there and growing.
How do we make sure that number continues to grow? That question isn’t as easy to answer. Much of the responsibility appears to rest on current chef-owners, the majority of whom are men. Women executive chefs also bear some responsibility to seek out and promote talented women. Customers should be open to the idea of a woman cooking their meals and avoid assuming that the man on the line is the one in charge.
And the media needs to broaden the circle of coverage beyond the same well-known (white, male) chefs, many of whom are happy to share the spotlight with the hard-working people below and around them.
The pay and benefits disparities that extend beyond the restaurant and hospitality industry will take greater efforts to reform—efforts beyond the scope of this series.
Perhaps the easiest and most enjoyable way to help solve the problem is to support a woman in the industry by eating her food and speaking her name to others.
Editor's Note: Links to other installments in the series are here: Part 1, Part 2A, Part 2B, Part 2C.
