What to expect at Vicia, which opens for lunch today

×

Expand

Courtesy Greg Rannells

For the local foodie, today is like Opening Day to a Cardinals fan.

After months and months of anticipation, Vicia, owned by Michael and Tara Gallina, will open its doors for lunch service today. Michael, a native St. Louisan, met his wife when they worked at the acclaimed Blue Hill at Stone Barns, the James Beard Foundation’s Outstanding Restaurant in 2015 (the country’s most coveted restaurant award).

The Gallinas raised eyebrows when they arrived in St. Louis a year ago with plans to open a “vegetable-forward” restaurant, where vegetables take center stage and proteins become more of a side or garnish. The husband-and-wife team tested and honed their ideas at a series of lunch and dinner pop-ups over the past several months.

The distillation of their labors can be experienced beginning today at 11 a.m. Dinner service begins next Tuesday, March 28. Lunch hours are Monday through Friday from 11 a.m.–1:30 p.m.; dinner hours will be Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30–9:30 p.m.

Designed by Sasha Malinich of R/5 and Casco Architects, Vicia is already being hailed as one of the most spectacular restaurant spaces in town. In September, Malinich described the interior's palette as "colorless color"—reflected in the use of natural materials "that celebrate the natural organic feel of each material.” Although we weren’t clear of his vision at the time, one look at the bespoke artwork and it became evident.

×

Expand

Courtesy Greg Rannells

On one wall is “Echinacea” (pictured above), a Midwestern prairie flower that parallels the name Vicia (described on the website as “a leguminous cover crop planted to replenish nutrients into the soil”). The wood branch installation on the back bar (pictured below), one that Tara predicted was “destined to be a conversation piece,” is bound to live up to those expectations.

×

Expand

Courtesy Greg Rannells

Lunch service follows the fast-casual format, but even that experience takes an unexpected turn. Vicia isn’t a shuffle-down-the-cafeteria-line or order-at-the-cluttered-counter affair. Upon entering, guests are directed to one end of the bar, where the order is placed. The menu is straightforward—initially a sandwich, soup, grain salad, quiche, and tartine—and reasonably priced ($7 to $11 per item, with smaller portions of any two items for $11 and any three for $14). A mini pastry case holds a selection of pastry chef Summer Wright’s treats. Once you place your order, the staff asks for a name and cellphone number, so a text message can be sent when the order is ready. Guests pick up beverages (including Firepot iced tea, orange and rose cream soda, and an apple and ginger leaf shrub soda) from the other end of the bar and seat themselves in one of several cleverly designed seating areas.

Courtesy Greg Rannells

The 54-seat space feels larger thanks to window walls separating the 14-seat bar from the 40-seat main room. More windows divide the main room from a 34-seat, all-weather exterior.

In this Q&A with SLM, the Gallinas said it was designed as an extension of the space (hence their reluctance to call it a “patio”) and contains the restaurant’s wood-fired grill, another conversation piece where Michael engages inquisitive patrons—a key element of the service model that the couple practiced at Stone Barns.

In minutes, a text is sent, prompting guests to pick up orders from the pass (pictured below), yet another opportunity for interaction with Vicia’s chefs and owners (and a welcome break from wandering, wide-eyed food runners). Other staffers work the floor, refilling beverages and clearing plates.

An example of the Gallinas' attention to detail: an hourglass on the host stand (pictured below), a subtle reminder to staff and guests that the restrooms are checked every 15 minutes, when the sand runs out.

At dinner, Vicia switches to a menu of snacks, shareables, and entrées that changes daily. The service model changes from elevated fast-casual to full-on table service, with reservations accepted. (Not surprisingly, even that detail has been given thoughtful consideration.)

×

Expand

Courtesy Greg Rannells