Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
You might not expect to find top-notch Asian cuisine in a casino. Then again, you might not have tried the Szechuan Wontons at Asia in Ameristar Casino.
This article is part of the "International Cuisine" feature in St. Louis Magazine's December 2017 issue.
CONTINENTAL CASINO CUISINE
The candied ginger–spiked Cascading Soju is a splendid start at Asia at Ameristar Casino. Everything’s housemade, right down to the giant fortune cookie holding your dinner check. 1 Ameristar, St. Charles.
A BALKAN TREAT
“The heart and soul of our truck is our wood-fired oven,” says Balkan Treat Box owner Loryn Feliciano-Nalic, whose Sarajevo-style somun and ćevapi are musts. “Wherever we stop, we’re baking breads.” balkantreatbox.com.
TAKING FLIGHT
For more than two decades, India Palace has been a fixture atop the Airport Plaza Hotel. Next year, it’s slated to move west, into Standard Brewing Company’s former digs in Maryland Heights (12322 Dorsett)—different view, same delicious cuisine. 4334 N. Lindbergh.
MODERN MEXICAN FARE
Milagro Modern Mexican (20 Allen) and Nixta (1621 Tower Grove) steer Mexican fare right off the map. The former—whose owners also operate the popular Mission Taco Joint (missiontacojoint.com)—goes the classic route with flair. The latter masterfully riffs on standards (shrimp tostadas and mushroom–stuffed flautas) in a tiny, lively joint that houses Bar Limón, a Latin-style late-night spot.
SUSHI SURPRISE
Sushi is on a roll, turning up in some unexpected places. At Sub Zero Vodka Bar, it’s beside burgers and, well, vodka. In O’Fallon, Missouri, Thai Jasmine serves sushi alongside its namesake food. But weirdest of all is Toasty Subs in Maplewood, where you can come for the meatball sandwich and stay for the sushi and ramen.
MIDDLE EASTERN DELI
Al-Tarboush Deli, an oft-overlooked mom-and-pop shop in The Loop, serves an astonishing $7 shawarma. Say yes to the spicy house sauce, pick up a slice of pistachio baklava, and sample hand pies as you please. 602 Westgate.
TIENDAS Y TAQUERIAS BEYOND CHEROKEE
Last year, Fausto and Maggie Pizarro opened El Toluco, serving authentic tacos, tortas and tamales in a nondescript Ballwin strip mall. Equally unassuming, Mi Tierra, in Fairmont City, Illinois, offers tacos, gorditas, and horchata. 14234 Manchester; 3121 Collinsville, East St. Louis.
RUSSIAN FARE IN WEBSTER
Stuffed with matryoshka dolls, under-the-radar Dvin is quirky, with humble but delicious food. Start with the borscht, and follow it with the dolma. The baklava is delicious, but try the honey cake for something different. Hours vary, so call ahead. 8143 Big Bend.
FRIDAY FARE AT ASSUMPTION GREEK ORTHODOX CHURCH
Tip: Dolmades (grape leaves stuffed with a rice filling) are served at lunchtime on Fridays. 1744 Des Peres.
