Photo by Greg Rannells
HOT SPOT
All hail, the king
Photo by Greg Rannells
Pumpkin tagine
Ben Poremba (of Elaia, Olio, Nixta, and Parigi) is one of the city’s most creative, prolific, and outspoken restaurateurs. So when the chef unveils a new restaurant, the local fooderati take notice. When the The Benevolent King opens early next month in Maplewood (in the space vacated by Water Street), guests can expect a Moroccan-inspired restaurant with a changing, cutting-edge menu of small and large plates geared to complement the cocktail program, curated by Tony Saputo, a local lord of mixology. Poremba plans to spend time in the kitchen, occasionally alongside his mother, who consulted on the menu. Inaugural items include pumpkin tagine, shrimp Mogador (with urfa pepper and chermoula), and Jben, a Moroccan fresh cheese served with citrus cured olives and za’atar. 7268 Manchester, 314-899-0440.
INSIDER TIP
Mind the mayo
As we ramp up to another food holiday—National Grilled Cheese Sandwich Day, April 12—we are reminded of a cooking hack that’s so old, it’s new again. Instead of spreading your sandwich with butter before grilling, consider mayonnaise instead. Before you dismiss the idea as too bizarre, remember that mayo spreads more evenly than butter, doesn’t burn as readily, and doesn’t soak into bread. Mayo adds a crispness and mild flavor component that, along with a hearty slice of sourdough, takes this simple sandwich to new heights. (Related hack: Fresh fish won’t stick to the grill when brushed with mayo beforehand.)
MICRORANT
Bus tub banging
While we don’t approve of bus carts located near the dining room or bus tubs on the floor of the bar, we reluctantly accept them as the progeny of poor restaurant design. What’s not acceptable is the staffers who drop—not place— glass and tableware into the tubs, oblivious not just to the clang and clatter, but also to the diners who jump out of their seats as a result. Slow it down, staffers, or belt us in.
