Photography by Greg Rannells
1. The initial popularization of Provel can be traced to John Sigillito of International Foods Co. in St. Louis.
2. The formal trademark application was filed in 1947 by J.S. Hoffman Company of Chicago, which was near where two deep-dish pizzerias now stand.
3. The trademark was initially denied because of existing trademarks on a cheese called
Provole or Provelac, an “emulsion of vitamin concentrate in butter fat and milk for food purposes.”
4. According to the trademark application, the word Provel means…nothing: “Applicant’s mark is a fanciful aggregation of letters without meaning.”
5. Hoffman was represented in the initial filing by Esther Kegan, the only female graduate of the 1936 class of Northwestern University’s law school.
6. Hoffman was represented in a renewal filing in 1970 by Fulbright, Crooker, Freeman, Bates & Jaworski—the final partner being Leon Jaworski, the Watergate special prosecutor.
7. Subsequently denied applications for trademarks for Provel by other companies included those for a painkiller and an herbicide.
8. After several corporate takeovers, the trademark is now held by Churny, a subsidiary of Kraft.
9. Italian food expert Lidia Bastianich once said of Provel, “When you taste it, close your eyes, and you’ll understand the complexity or umami of the flavors.”
10. All legitimate Provel is distributed through Roma Grocery Co. on The Hill. The late president of Roma, Toots Pezzani, was the uncle of Ed Imo.
