Courtesy of Taqueria Morita
On May 26, just in time for Memorial Day weekend, the much-anticipated Taqueria Morita is slated to open in the newly constructed terraced garden space at Vicia. Here's what to expect.
The Players
The concept comes from Take Root Hospitality (TRH), a new company founded by acclaimed restaurateurs Tara and Michael Gallina, along with accomplished culinary director and former Vicia executive chef Aaron Martinez, who will serve as head chef for the project. Martinez became the hospitality group's culinary director after serving as executive chef at Elaia and Cinder House. Martinez will oversee food operations for all three Gallina-owned restaurants: Vicia, Winslow’s Table, and the recently acquired Bar Les Freres.
The Concept
Taqueria Morita is inspired by Martinez’s Mexican heritage and takes its name from the morita chile. The idea was to build on the success of Vicia’s taco-inspired, open-air pop-ups held during the pandemic and provide a new vehicle to expand Vicia's offerings to more casual patrons.
The restaurant will feature creative takes on tacos, sides, and other seasonal dishes, with many featuring the restaurant’s grown-on-site vegetables. Vicia’s outdoor hearth kitchen has been reconfigured to include a small oven, fryers, and a flattop for cooking tortillas.
Given the resumes and reputation of the partners, some might be tempted to dub it an upscale taqueria, though Martinez prefers the word “unique." He’ll be drawing on the flavors and textures amassed from spending 20 years in restaurant kitchens. “Call it ‘authentic by being inauthentic,’ if that makes any sense,” he says. “We're true to what the taco concept is but approach it differently.”
The Menu
Martinez describes the fare as “rustic but not lazy, and deliberate but not precious.” The taco varieties include carne asada, pork, oyster mushroom, and fried fish. (The initial offering is lightly marinated, tempura-fried Atlantic cod, served with jalapeño salsa, chili morita aioli, and shaved red cabbage). Another option is Martinez’s current favorite: a carrot tinga taco with queso fresco and spiced seeds.
Courtesy of Taqueria Morita
Tempura fish tacos, carrot tinga tacos
The menu also includes achiote cauliflower, red beet tostadas (pictured below), oysters on the half shell, different raw fish preparations (such as ceviche and agua chile) served with tortillas for dipping, and a vegetarian version that Martinez had success with before “using celtuce, a crunchy, almost almond-y variety of lettuce used in Asian dishes.”
Courtesy of Taqueria Morita
One of Martinez’s cooking secrets is using a lot of acidity, which a lot of other Mexican food does not have, he says; it adds brightness and balance, in addition to cutting the fattiness of the meat and fry batter.
As for chips and salsa? “That’s my favorite thing," says Martinez. "That’s my vice.” One salsa is bright green and herbaceous, and the other is a dark red from roasted peppers; neither packs much heat. “My opinion is that table salsas shouldn't be too spicy, since the heat tends to build with multiple bites,” Martinez says. Tortilla chips will be “neither too thick nor too thin” and fried in-house. Freshly made guacamole will be available as well.
Courtesy of Taqueria Morita
Aaron Martinez
The corn tortillas—5.5-inches in diameter and made from local yellow corn—are supplied by Alex Henry, chef-owner of Sureste at City Foundry STL. “Alex reached out and was interested in a little side business—his tortillas are great,” Martinez says. “I’m from Southern California, where you see a lot of flour tortillas, so that’s definitely an option for down the road.” Tacos will be $12–$16 for two, Martinez says, noting the price of raw materials and quality of ingredients.
The bar program is spearheaded by TRH bar manager Phil Ingram and features signature margaritas, wine on draft, and a custom beer from Rockwell Beer Co.
Orders for food and drink will be placed at a counter and delivered by staffers, a method that allows for any food or drink questions to be properly addressed ahead of time, according to Martinez. Add-ons can be placed via table-dedicated QR codes.
The Experience
Courtesy of Taqueria Morita
“Vicia and Morita are two different entities, two different experiences,” explains Martinez. “They share a prep area, but the kitchens are separate, so because of logistics and practicality, guests at one can't be ordering from both menus."
The outdoor restaurant, designed by architectural firm SPACE, will have 56 seats, half under a covered awning and half on the lower level of the pavilion. Additional garden space, designed by Custom Foodscaping, features edible and sustainable plants, flowers, apple, and pear trees.
The taqueria is a first-come, first-served outdoor facility that will close in the fall, when weather dictates. During inclement weather in season, it will switch to takeout service. The initial hours will be 5–9 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, weather permitting.
