A first look at BEAST Butcher & Block’s new “Nose to Tail” brunch

“I want us to be the best brunch in the city,” says David Sandusky, pitmaster at BEAST Butcher & Block in The Grove and sister venue BEAST Craft BBQ in Belleville.

It doesn’t take long to figure out that Sandusky is a “say what I mean and mean what I say” kind of guy. Although his new Nose to Tail brunch at BEAST Butcher & Block is only a couple of weeks old, having launched September 15, the early signs are promising.

Brunch takes place every Sunday from 10 a.m.–2 p.m. It’s built around a “fire-to-table” concept that showcases the potential of The Skullery, BEAST’s experimental kitchen and special events space, which is well-equipped with kitchen tools and toys—though Sandusky is also happy to leave room for his chefs’ DIY ingenuity.

“My chef turned a refrigerator into a dry-ager,” Sandusky says, pointing to a fridge filled with hunks of meat, a fan inside, door propped slightly open with a towel. You can also spot a bank of jars containing an assortment of vinegars made in-house by chef Ryan McDonald.

Brunchers sit in the restaurant alongside guests ordering from BEAST’s regular barbecue menu, which is available all day. The Skullery is the beating heart of the brunch, however, and when you enter on a Sunday morning, there’s a sense of occasion. The main action takes place behind the counter, where McDonald and fellow chef Derek Graue tend to various cuts of meat hung above a wood fire. These can include brisket, ham, smoked turkey, porchetta, and pork jowel.

The meat cuts have already spent several hours in the outdoor smoker through the night, but the wood fire’s flames simultaneously continue to impart smoky flavor and help the meat stay warm before being served. One of the best parts of the brunch is the interaction with the chefs, who take time to chat with diners. They’ll also help customers choose meat and slice cuts. Omelets and other egg orders are also prepared over hot coals, infusing the end product with a light, smoky finish.

Though you should try all the options, including the cured salmon, the fatty porchetta and pork jowel were our favorites. Sandusky buys his pork from Minnesota-based Compart Family Farms and is adamant that the product gives the lie to the belief that all pigs are created equal. This is clearly a source of frustration for the pitmaster. “People always tell me ‘A pig is a pig.’ I hear that all the time from customers and industry people. It’s just not true.”

Another two tables inside The Skullery are laden with a buffet that covers more bases than your average brunch. Here’s where you need to strategize. This starts at home, with loose, comfortable clothing. The food isn’t going to go away, so pace yourself. If you want to try everything, take smaller portions of each item on your first pass—you can go back for more of the things you like. Be cautious with carbs; don’t fill up too soon on bread.

The fattier slices of the thick-cut, crispy bacon are particularly delicious, and don’t miss the sausages, freshly piped every Sunday morning. Another highlight is the Briskets & Gravy, served with biscuits made in-house. Sides include cheese grits, smoky cauliflower, and BEAST’s ever-popular brussels sprouts. There are a couple of salads, as well as yogurt, oats, and homemade granola. For the sweet-toothed diner, there’s French toast, also prepped over the fire, and bread pudding.

Brunch costs a flat $29, and you can eat as much as you like. Sandusky encourages guests to book their spot online, though walk-ins are also possible. Arrive early to maximize your time, but know that there’s no way you’re going to go home hungry. The cost of brunch includes coffee and sodas. Alcoholic drinks can be ordered individually, but if you have reason to celebrate, add $15 per person for free-flow draft beer and brunch cocktails.

Sandusky and his team are making tweaks to the brunch every week. The pitmaster says he’s considering adding a hot entrée to the offerings, and he’d like to do more with the bread table, but he’s also spending brunch hours on the floor talking to customers and hearing what they’re saying. Where it’s at now, though, already has what it takes to become a local favorite.