Santa Fe Bistro in Creve Coeur serves more options than the name implies

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Tacos dorados

If you’re a Varetta Dillard fan, you’ll remember her 1952 hit “I Don’t Know What It Is, But I Like It.” That’s the way we feel about Santa Fe Bistro, which opened over the summer at the site of the former EdgeWild Bistro & Tap space in Creve Coeur.

You might have the impression, given the name, that it’s a Southwest-inspired sort of place. And the menu is studded with comida, such as black beans, chiles, tomatillos. But, well, halibut never figured significantly in the diet of Santa Fe. The pueblos of Nuevo México rarely served margherita pizza. Both dishes are among the bistro’s dining options.

This isn’t a destination for culturally authentic Southwest American fare—and doesn’t pretend to be—but one dish we sampled would have been right at home in any bowl from Mesa Verde to the Guadalupe Mountains. Pozole, with heaps of ivory hominy nubbins and ribbons of shredded pork, is a glossy, substantial stew. The textures are splendidly perfect, blended in a kind of hominy harmony.

Another Mexican-inspired offering: tacos dorados, or “golden tacos.” Ever wonder where those crunchy tacos came from, considering the authentic variety are made with soft corn tortillas? They evolved from this dish, which is fried crisp and rolled after being stuffed with potatoes, chicken, or steak, and topped with queso fresco, lettuce, and sour cream. It’s a worthy rendition of the classic dish, and you can up the heat if you like by requesting a bowl of fairly formidable hot sauce.

Don’t mistake totopos for nachos. They’re way better. They’re lavishly decorated with an elaborate pico de gallo, a cheesy fondu of Parmesan cheese and cream, and steak or chicken. They’re offered as a starter but would make a fabulous main course. 

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Campechana

Expect to share the campechana, a glorious sort of shrimp cocktail/ceviche hybrid. It arrives in a chilled goblet that you could wade in, overflowing with curls of shrimp, cilantro, avocado slices, and tomato juice, spiked with Hatch green chiles. Heap a dribbly spoonful over a crisp tortilla triangle, and then scoop up every drop of that vinegary, fragrant “tiger’s milk” at the bottom of the bowl.

There are also a half-dozen pizzas, with such toppings as black beans, marinated pork pastor, and grilled pineapple. Sandwiches deserve attention. There’s a green Hatch chile cheddar burger; a grilled cheese stuffed with smoked salmon and guacamole; and a Cubano, with marinated pork, ham, Swiss cheese, and that essential yellow mustard. 

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Freshwater striped bass

Santa Fe Bistro’s owner also holds the deed to Clayton’s Oceano Bistro, which probably explains the variety of seafood dishes. “Stripers” evokes images of casting rods whipping the Montauk surf. Striped bass should be far more popular around here than it is. The flesh is delicate, with a texture similar to halibut, and it’s buttery without any “fishiness.” This version is pan-seared until the skin is crisp. Chunks of Yukon potatoes, a spill of caramelized onions, and a light green tomatillo sauce make for a lovely balance of tastes.

An apple and jalapeño salsa accompanies a fillet of halibut. Grilled salmon’s served over a bed of lemon couscous. Rainbow trout gets a splash of Szechuan sauce that enlivens the delicate white meat. Salsa verde goes with Hawaiian tuna like peanut butter with steak, but it’s an interesting combination.

Speaking of steak, the bone-in rib eye is absolutely creditable. Cutting into it reveals a rosy, glistening center. Every bite explodes with flavor. What could have been an ordinary roast chicken gets a serious upgrade with a lemon, caper, and sherry cream sauce.

A bar dispenses cocktails, including several tequila-based options, as well as a jalapeño vodka martini. 

The patio is inviting, with young trees and wide-spaced, marble-topped tables—though it’s situated near Olive, so the ambience is less tranquil, more trackside at Indy. Inside is comfortable and relaxed. While it might not be as authentically Southwestern as a Georgia O’Keefe flower or Roswell, it’s a worthwhile dining destination.