Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
First the “William Tell Overture,” then “Leader of the Pack.” We have to ask: Who’s selecting the music at Randolfi’s? A finger’s jabbed at owner Mike Randolph, whose restaurant is an homage to his Italian ancestors, the Randolfis, and who’s working only 6 feet from our table. He grins and pauses, as he slices a sweet plum to decorate our sweetbreads, long enough to say, “I love this stuff.”
The hits keep a-coming, and so, too, dinner: a mélange of tastes and experiences and, as with the music, you’re wondering: What’s next?
Along with “Hazy Shade of Winter” comes a sardine roasted whole, one of the best fish dishes in town. It’s splendidly simple and rich. The sardine sits atop a panzanella salad studded with smoked tomatoes and dressed with a pucker-worthy sherry vinaigrette.
Then, as Desmond Dekker wails “Israelites,” those sweetbreads arrive with a sauce of Calabrian chili and those plums, which add a complementary sweetness.
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Portions are small (save for the pasta dishes, which come in two sizes), so order two or three. We sampled most of the menu and found nothing that didn’t please. Even a humble cauliflower is deliciously rendered: A whole head is lightly charred, spritzed with lemon juice, and dusted with Parmesan.
The interior of Randolfi’s, formerly home to The Good Pie, is rustic, with wood walls festooned with mounted antlers and family pictures. The chef has kept his magnificent domed oven, and pizzas still arrive deliciously scorched—as pizza’s meant to be.
Much of the pasta comes in whimsical forms. Cockscomb shapes are perfect in a dish of puréed chicken livers and fried sage. Ridged tubes of garganelli accompany herb-roasted tomatoes and hazelnuts. Gnocchi thumbs are tossed with slivers of duck confit in a puddle of citrus sauce. The dumplings in braised pork and beans are molded from 00 flour, the same grade used in the pizzas. The pork belly is rich, glistening.
For dessert, don’t miss the roasted pears with vanilla gelato. The “chocolate pizza” is simply an offense against all that is right.
Several craft beers work well. Even better is a short wine list of mostly Italian vintages. Most are available by glass or bottle—or carafe, which makes for a nice way to share.
As we left Randolfi’s, the tune playing posed the question “Will You Still Love Me Tomorrow?” Oh yeah.
The Bottom Line Consistently excellent house-made pastas and inventive small portions are served in a relaxed, happy setting.
