Review: Mike Randolph’s Público is Worthy of Its Accolades

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

The shells are made in-house of landrace bolita corn from Michoacán in Mexico.

You just came for tacos, but now in front of you, swimming across a polished tree slab platter, is a magnificent fried snapper served whole, with crispy gold skin and crunchy tortillas. How’d that happen?

At Público, it’s easy to find yourself exploring culinary destinations you never intended to visit. “Latin-inspired” fare is advertised. The take is decidedly South and Central American. Quesadillas, for instance, include sourdough tortillas covered with shishito peppers, squash blossoms, a creamy cheese, and herb crème. Refried beans jump from ordinary side to special treat when housemade with bacon drippings, citrusy cilantro, and shards of queso fresco.

Público is small. It features a popular bar (try the mezcal margarita with smoked salt), Latino artwork (an obligatory Frida portrait), and unexpected décor (a Woody Guthrie tribute and spiky tree sculptures). The best seats: at the kitchen counter, where you can see the fire-breathing hearth. Otherwise, tables and booths are comfortable. It’s intimate; service is personal and informed. As our server explained the small-plate concept, we tried to figure out which dishes we didn’t want to try.

Start with the sweetbreads, roasted to an exquisite char and contrasting with a sauce of pineapple and habañero. Then there are the pole beans, ignited with a fiery chili butter and candied almonds. And the tortilla grits: ground in-house, then topped with sliced shiitakes and a chimichurri flavored with mild onion-like ramps. Some small plates, such as the spicy green beans, work for sharing. Others, like the arepas—fat corn pancakes loaded with rich, creamy guacamole—you’ll want all for yourself. The Peruvian method for using up leftover rice is tacu tacu, in which the rice is mashed with cooked lentils and formed into thick sticks that are pan fried for a tasty crust and a soft, savory interior. The sauce of charred tomatoes, “pickle” de gallo, and ají panca (a smoky-sweet Peruvian pepper) make this a remarkable appetizer or side.

There are also tacos. The tortillas are made of corn ground and pressed in-house, folded around such fillings as smoked whitefish and shredded carnitas. Try the tacos loaded with a tender brisket, as well as duck, the meat slathered in a luxuriant duck fat mayo. Bigger dishes such as pork ribs and flank steaks are equally worthy of your attention. The best is a moist chicken slow-cooked in adobo and accompanied by a homey corn sauce.

Finally, there’s often a fish special. Like that fried snapper, it’s a reminder of just how special Público is.

The Bottom Line: Nominally Latin American cuisine, the approach is unique and delicious.