Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Braised pork shank with fontina polenta and roasted spring vegetables
A preliminary stop in the bar is mandatory. It’s rainy-night cozy, intimate. The cocktails are both creative and classic. Think of your pause at the bar as a civilized moment before dinner. Relax. Sip. Repeat.
Patrons of the earlier, imaginatively named The Restaurant will find some changes at Boundary. There are the same wine cellar walls and that inviting fireplace. But they’ll now find a raw bar, a zinc-topped communal table, and more attractive seating options. The place is now more inviting.
Yes, the whole “small plates” thing is overdone. Though Boundary’s menu is composed of such, you may order many of the offerings as full-size courses. Some dishes are so rich, small plates suffice. For instance, the poutine—fries topped with gravy, a fried egg, and cheese curds—nearly overwhelms. Bruschetta-like toasts are laden with roasted Brussels sprouts and strands of taffy-soft stracciatella di bufala.
Some plates are adequate single courses, such as a presentation of swordfish fillets. They’re restrained, roasted, piled on a bed of sautéed kale with a spritz of lemon and a smattering of capers. Others are generous: The pork shank is slow roasted and simply prepared; the result is crusty-gold and paired with a hefty dollop of polenta stirred with fontina and braised Swiss chard. It’s a massive meal, excellent for sharing. Also shareable: a whole Gulf snapper, a wood fire–grilled Angus porterhouse with accordion-sliced Hasselback potatoes, and a massive seafood sampler. (Incidentally, the plates are irregularly shaped rough ceramic in soothing, earthy colors. They’re perhaps the most beautiful of any eatery in town.)
A glossy mound of risotto, studded with butternut squash, holds golden grilled scallops and roasted leeks. Every ingredient is prepared perfectly, the rice al dente, the scallops buttery and sweet. Trout fillets are rewardingly simple: roasted, like the accompanying cauliflower, and drizzled with brown butter. Macaroni and white cheddar cheese, baked with garlic-fragrant breadcrumbs, is an instant favorite. Another side is unexpectedly fine: charred broccolini, served with a slurry of sesame garlic purée and Korean hot sauce.
Big reds dominate a nice wine list. The desserts, such as apple crisp and chocolate mousse, tend toward the extravagant. Expect courteous, convivial service. It’s noisy, especially at peak hours.
The name celebrates the line that Boundary straddles between city and county. It should draw happy diners from both.
The Bottom Line: Excellent American fare, including small plates, is served in a big atmosphere with a charming bar.
Boundary
7036 Clayton
314-932-7818
Lunch and dinner daily
