Review: Modern Mexican restaurant Gringo gets a reboot downtown

×

Expand

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

A selection of Gringo's tacos, served à la carte

Gringo is back. After a stint in the Central West End years ago, the modern Mexican restaurant has been re-imagined for a wider audience, this time downtown at The MX. Pi Pizzeria’s Chris Sommers is catering to the masses—conventioneers and tourists, residents and workers—with an accessible menu and top-notch margaritas.

The chic white dining room is filled with hanging planters, succulents, and trailing vines. Floor-to-ceiling windows bring in plenty of sun, and a long, sleek white bar beckons.

Acclaimed executive chef Cary McDowell puts a unique turn, technique, or ingredient on a host of familiar dishes: burritos, tacos, tortas and burgers, and machetes (picture oversized quesadillas). 

Most of the offerings feature one of four meat preparations, as well as a spiced jackfruit vegetarian offering. The best way to experience the variety? Order the tacos. The tender carnitas is filled with citrus-marinated pork, salsa verde, pickled onions, cabbage, and cotija cheese in a soft corn tortilla (sourced from a Chicago producer that met Gringo’s exacting specifications). The al carbon—tender chunks of carne asada steak with pasilla salsa—is topped with arugula, adding a peppery bite. The tinga (with pulled chicken) and al pastor (with pineapple) are savory and tender. And the spicy veggie taco is filled with jackfruit, pickled corn and onions, cotija, and the addictive Tajín lime-and-chili seasoning powder.

Among the four machetes on the menu, the Divine Swine features slow-cooked carnitas and crema, complemented by a vibrant salsa verde and pickled red onions. The three available burritos—the Porky Pig (carnitas), Pollo Loco (chicken tinga), and Eddie Guerrero (steak al carbon)—may be ordered grilled or fried, with an option to “make it loco” by adding a chipotle tomato sauce and cotija cheese.

The burgers were justly popular at Gringo’s previous incarnation. Don’t pass up the Green Chili Cheeseburger. Roasted poblano pepper and chow-chow relish add vivid, bold flavors to the juicy burger. And sides that are often run-of-the-mill elsewhere, such as rice and street corn, are fragrant, well seasoned, and attentively prepared here.

×

Expand

Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

The bar program deserves as much attention as the food. Nine shaken margaritas are available, three on tap and two frozen. Each has a distinctive character, with hibiscus in the Rosa Mexicana, grapefruit in the Paloma, and fresh chilis in the Jalapeño. There are also more than 20 tequila selections, a variety of cervezas and craft beers, wine, and more. The best time to go? During one of the two happy hours, 3–6 p.m. and 9 p.m.–close, Monday through Friday. If you return the next day, consider the michelada—a concoction of Mexican beer, tomato juice, citrus, and hot sauce—which Gringo prescribes as the perfect hangover cure.