Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
There aren’t many places where I’d expect to find a 2006 Barbaresco by the glass, let alone in a strip mall flanked by a gym and nail salon. But the discovery isn’t as much of a surprise when you consider that Cellar House is connected to an older sister business, Bottle Cellars, a charming counterpoint to adult beverage megastores. After the original attracted a core group of fans for tastings, adding a sit-down space with food was a natural evolution.
The restaurant reinforces the small-is-beautiful theme, serving a locally sourced menu in a sleek, dramatically lit space with about 30 table seats and another dozen at a long bar. Choices include small plates, large plates, meat and cheese boards, and flatbreads. On the drink side are a half-dozen drafts and a mid-length list of bottled craft beers. Wine by the glass is available in both 3- and 6-ounce pours, offering all sorts of pairing possibilities.
One in particular, the PCP and LSD (consciously laid out that way or not), was mind-blowing. The former is a flatbread topped with pesto, crimini mushrooms, and peppers; the latter is an imperial stout from 2nd Shift. The roasty chocolate-style beer made the perfect chaser for the flatbread’s earthy vegetable flavors and sweet balsamic reduction.
The “large” plates include two different approaches to sliders: bison and tuna. The bison sliders were boisterous compositions—the bold meatiness of the bison, the soft-edged sharpness of Marcoot Creamery’s Tipsy Cheddar and, tying them together, a supreme condiment called tomato bacon jam. The tuna sliders were served rare and topped with medium chili fire and mellow garlic flavor in a spicy aioli.
The seared scallops was probably the best-composed dish that we encountered. Perfectly caramelized faces surrounded a kaleidoscopic Asian-dressed slaw of cucumber, carrots, radish, red cabbage, and cilantro, dotted with sesame seeds. The base orders of the sliders and scallops comprised three pieces for $14, but for larger appetites or more balanced date-sharing, a fourth could be added for $4 more.
The small plates included the timeless combination of layered beets and goat cheese, cleverly enhanced with a lemon vinaigrette and watercress, as well as a nice riff on lettuce wraps containing pulled pork with a Korean accent.
Service was both quick and knowledgeable. The beer taps change frequently, but the servers described each option in great detail, as well as suggesting food pairings. And the 2006 Barbaresco? Though an Italian purist might object, it was the perfect complement to a beef bourguignon.
The Bottom Line: Distinction isn’t always restricted to trendy neighborhoods.
Cellar House
6039 Telegraph
314-846-5100
Dinner Tue–Sat
