Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
At first glance, you might think the menu at the latest restaurant to occupy 255 Union includes everything but the kitchen sink. Look more closely, however, and you’ll find that even it makes an appearance.
The Kitchen Sink comprises shrimp and andouille mixed into cheese grits and served in a round cake pan, topped with a tablespoon or so of crabmeat and infused with a tasso ham–and–crab gravy. Though there are several signature dishes sprinkled across the sprawling menu, this is probably the most definitive of them, given that the name of the restaurant is also The Kitchen Sink.
If the name rings a bell, that could be because SLM reviewed the restaurant last May, when it was in a hole in the wall at the opposite end of the neighborhood. The new location is much larger. It carries with it the baggage that stretches back to when one of St. Louis’ legendary French chefs, Bernard Douteau, ran his American Brasserie there in the 1990s. In the interim, roughly 10 other establishments there had life spans ranging from a few months to a few years. There’s still a nice enough interior, but the space’s many renovations have left it a touch ramshackle—which is perfect for The Kitchen Sink’s feel of an upscale diner with Cajun accents.
You can wander through a large chunk of the Cajun menu with the 4 Horsemen entrée, a sampler of jambalaya; crawfish étouffée; seafood gumbo; and sausage, beans, and rice. This arrives in not one but two round metal pans, a portion so large you should avoid the proffered upsell of a side dish over and above the included corn fritters. All four of the items are well-made examples of Cajun cooking, but my favorite is the étouffée, which has a generous portion of still-firm tail meat and the requisite complex, lingering flavors in its richly textured sauce.
The kitchen’s use of ground cayenne isn’t subtle. If you prefer your Louisiana cooking more toward the mild side, let the server know when you order. (On the other hand, if you need to raise the temperature in the other direction, both Trappey’s hot sauce and sriracha sauce are available on each table.)
Breakfast items are also integral to the menu, but because The Kitchen Sink doesn’t open until 11 a.m., they’re made available until closing time. The Crab Cake Beanie is a valid all-day choice, with two flattened-puck-size crab cakes served under a bed of that St. Louis favorite, flash-fried spinach, topped with two poached eggs and a fired-up version of hollandaise. The still-hot plate is garnished with powdered Cajun seasoning, which means its arrival is announced by a waft of pepper-and-paprika aroma. Each individual element is still hot, reflecting that it’s freshly made. The spinach is the only imperfection—not bad, but with just a tad too much oil remaining on it.
The Kitchen Sink also prides itself on a fairly long list of elaborate burgers and sandwiches. The Phat Albert burger adds the richness of ground rib-eye to its foundation, then tops it off with Swiss cheese, razor-thin slices of brisket, and as many condiments as you can think of, wrapping the whole thing in buttery Texas toast.
One of the servers is a former customer of the former location, which fits in quite nicely with the vibe of the new Kitchen Sink.
The Bottom Line: It’s the perfect hangout or stop-off on a Forest Park trip, as well as a destination for fans of Cajun and Creole cuisine.
255 Union
DeBaliviere Place
314-454-1551
Lunch and dinner daily
Average Main Course: $11
Dress: Like you’re going to a fais do-do
Reservations: Only for parties of six or more
Chef: Anthony Ellerson Jr.
