Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Chinese chao mein got a makeover in Malaysia, in which it was tricked out with green peppers, tomatoes, and shallots tossed with soft noodles in a dish called mee goreng. You can enjoy a platter on any of a thousand Kuala Lumpur street corners. In St. Louis, visit Hiro Asian Kitchen, where the chef/owner offers this dish from his native country. 1405 Washington, 314-241-4476, hiroasiankitchen.com.
Symphonic Flavors
A citrusy spike of lime combines with a smack of curry powder and other spices, tossed with shrimp, green onions, and fried-egg slivers. The result: a Southeast Asian symphony in your mouth.
Savory Secrets
One secret to the dish are those chewy egg noodles, which are stir-fried and served in a small heap. Another is the judicious use of garlic that contributes just the right kick.
Spicing Things Up
What, exactly, is that piquant, spicy flavor that tickles your nose while you’re eating mee
goreng? It’s sambal oelek, a thick sauce of chilies, shrimp paste, and lime juice.
Eating Utensils
A combination of Chinese, Indonesian, and native Malay, Malaysian food is best eaten with chopsticks—a Chinese influence. But for those not inclined to chopsticks, a fork is just fine.
A Banana Base
Hiro’s mee goreng is served on a green banana leaf, which doesn’t really add anything to the taste but does provide a beautiful color contrast and a nice authenticity.
